It saved my axle and it's holding up well. I'm a happy camper.

Seems to be good quality and the price was right.

Both of my inner boots were shot so I grabbed 2 of these kits for only $11 each. I would like to note that the clamps that were included were not the style that is pictured (which was a good thing in my opinion). The clamps that were included are the standard style boot clamps that will require boot clamp pliers for installation. Highly recommended if you’re in need of Miata CV inner boots.

Use for cv boot for axel on car .

Perfect fit, everything needed was included, installed a few months ago and there have not been any issues.

Installed on my 2002 Subaru WRX Wagon, front inner joint. (The Beck Arnley website says this model is for the rear inner, but it's the same for the front inner as well). If you do have to replace just the CV boot, search youtube on how to do it without pulling the axle out of the center diff which will spare you from having to do a transmission fluid change. You can just pull the ball joint out of the cup.

Beware: did not fit my 2004 WRX wagon, the rubber boot i received did not have "dimples" to properly seal around the green CV joint housing even though the part number of the kit I received matches the number on BeckArnley website. It is possible I received wrong boot since the box was pretty beat up on arrival and not sealed in any way, loose parts inside.Returned the item for a refund and got new boot from the dealer @ $24 for rubber piece alone. FYI, with grease and straps it would have been close $70.

I had a hard time verifying if this was the front inner boot since most websites only have the outer boots. It did fit but it may be a tiny bit smaller. Those clamps can be tricky to install without the special clamp tool. 2003 wrx sedan.

These worked perfectly for 1997 Subaru Outback, but you need to get the Lisle CV joint banding tool #30950. Also remember these are inner CV boots the outers are #1032595. All come with grease and new bands.

This fit perfectly on my 2003 Subaru Outback with 65k miles. It even came with the grease (not pictured). Apparently it's a common problem, the front inner CV boot on the passenger side sits right above the catalyst which the heat degrades it quicker. I was not looking forward to doing this messy job, but I'm glad I did. NO special tools required. It also cost a lot less than getting it done at the dealer.I watched all the Youtube - eric the car guy and others but was confused because everyone did it slightly different. Here is how I did it the easiest way. Step by step:- Take front passenger wheel off, knock out center cap and re-install wheel.- Borrow or buy a 32mm from store such as Lowes- Loosen axle hub nut but do not take it off yet. You will need to use a 3-4 feet extension steel bar and use a lot of force. Do not drive around with the axle nut loose as it may damage the bearings.- Disconnect lower stabilizer link connection- Remove cotter pin and castle nut at tie rod end of control arm (this makes it a lot easier)- I tried to take off the top bolt of the lower control arm ball joint as listed in Subaru manual but did not come off. Was afraid to take off lower bolt off since I may damage the seal.- So I took off the two bolts at the shock tower. Mark the upper bolt so you don't loose your camber alignment and then take the lower bolt off.- Everything came right off without banging.- push entire wheel assembly away and a slight hammering (softly) dislodges the drive shaft out of the wheel.- Place transmission in neutral so you can turn the axle.- Take air filter housing off to get to the drive axle pin from top. You can do it from bottom but it's tight and can damage the O2 sensor, so I went from top- Turn axle to see pin from top. One end of pin is small the other end is slightly bigger, because it is tapered. I turned axle until big hole is directly on top.- Knock the pin off the drive shaft axle. I used a 16D nail and ground the tip off flat and ground the top of the nail slightly so I can jam it into a universal screwdriver and duct-taped. Not much force is needed lightly hammering taps it right out.- Holding the green cup the whole axle came right off.- Upon inspection the outer CV boot also had some cracks when stretched/ flexed- Cut off boot- Put alignment marks on shaft so everything goes back like original.- Remove inner joint outer race using screwdriver, it's on the inside edge of the green cup.- Wiped the inner boot area clean with rag, the outer boot area I left intact for now.- I did not have a snap ring tool to disassemble the free ring.- Anyway had to go to dealer to get an outer CV boot ($22 w/o straps or grease) straps reused or use plumbing Stainless Steel Hose Clamps. While at dealer used their snap ring tool.- Re-greased the inner boot area and put everything back using the alignment marks and the original snap ring.- Re-install everything back.- Been driving for a week no vibration or any problems.Total cost for rebooting and re-greasing passenger side drive shaft = $38 and 7 hours labor that includes going to Lowes for 32mm socket and 4 SS hose clamps, the dealership to get outer boot and one snack/ water / bathroom break. Next time I can probably do it under 2 hours.Good Luck!!!!UPDATE (12/1/2015) 2 years and 20k miles later ... I was under the car this weekend changing the oil and noticed everything is just fine with the CV boots even the SS plumbing hose clamps are intact, which I was worried if they would last, slightly rusty but intact.This is the only repair my 13 year old Subaru has ever required, besides an AC recharge and O rings. Most reliable car I have ever owned and I've owned many.My suggestion for any repair is keep or repair original parts on the Subaru, this car is bullet proof.

I was under my car working on something else and found grease and a tear on my CV boot. I have a Subaru with AWD, if I replace one joint I want to do all 4, just me you don't have too.So about the boot kit, it comes with everything you need, grease, clamps, snaprings (two different sizes front and rear maybe?)I got on youtube and found that EricTheCarGuy (spelling?) had a video on how to replace a boot. It was very informative. I used that as a general guide.2002 WRX - boot location inner front passenger-side (think this fits rear inner also)I raised my car, after taking off wheel, removed the nut on the endlink, the bolt the holds the ball-joint, popped out the pin on the CV joint and pulled it off the tranny. There is a thin metal ring that holds the main body(the inner part that holds the cups/bearings) anyway pop that metal ring out and the cups will slide right out with a little wiggling. There is a lot of grease there so you might have to dig for it but the metal ring should be there near the lip where the cups are.The kit was a good fit. Looked to be sized exactly like OEM. It looked to be a quality part too, looks like it will last a while. The clamps that came with my kit was the type you have to have the special tool that you feed the excess clamp through, tighten it a bit and double it over on itself and clamp down the little ear things.