Pretty straightforward replacement. This part is identical to the factory part that had failed in my 2008 Chevy Trailblazer. Just make sure tpu get the kne with the right connector as there is one with a 7pin plug (like mine) and a different one with a 5pin plug

Works as it should with no problems. Easy to install.

I love it because my car ir turning on an its working

Al momento de instalar el producto, no funciono, lo reviso un tecnico Electrico, y menciono que venia con defecto desde la fabrica.

i dislike that it does not work tested it with junk yard motor that worked would really like some help with returning this but hitting brick wall

This exact part is sold at the chain auto parts stores for $289. Same exact product, same exact manufacturer. Went on in 20min. Got it in 2 days. Perfect fit on 2009 GMC Envoy SLT. Be careful, 2 connector types, 5 pin and 7 pin. Make sure to order correct match. Highly recommend, common failure on these GMC Suv's. No longer stuck in 4 wheel. Saved transfer case and transmission.

The parts were exactly what I ordered and came on time.

Problem: Trailblazer was stuck on 4low. TCCM and the front actuator were good. Looked at the transfer case motor. Disconnected the old transfer case motor but left it connected. I switched it to 2hi and saw the transfer case motor didn't rotate. Took it apart and discovered the studs holding the very first 4 cogs/gears were broken-- hence no rotation.Solution: Replaced transfer case motor: turned on the engine, put it neutral, engage parking brake, turned the spline to match new transfer case position with vise grips (clockwise in my case), mounted the motor, put the vehicle back to park, turned off engine, and then connected the power of transfer case motor power.Before starting engine, left the switch to 2hi. No more 4wd errors and Trailblazer was switching between 2hi, A4wd, 4hi like normal.

Delivered quickly and fit perfectly. Got me going.

This 4x4 actuator motor is the exact correct unit for my 2006 Trailblazer. The old motor seized in 4x4 low. I was able to remove it and use a pair of small vise grips to hold the selector spindle in 2wd. Drove the vehicle for 6 weeks like that while shopping around for the most affordable replacement motor available - this one. It works great now. Don't forget to swap the 2 alignment inserts in the mounting base (they come out with vise grips - hell yeah)

used on my 2006 gmc envoy, worked great, easy to install.

I purchased this part to replace the failing OEM transfer case encoder motor on my 2005 Trailblazer. The OEM transfer case motor would successfully shift into 2HI and A4WD, but would not engage when 4HI or 4LO was selected.The replacement only took about 20-30 minutes using a 13mm socket and extension. I used a jack and couple of jack stands to raise the TB for easy access to the transfer case motor location, but a couple of ramps would work just as well.It's probably one of the easiest do-it-yourself projects I've done on my Trailblazer since it's a direct replacement bolt-on part and is easily accessible underneath the vehicle. The Dorman transfer case motor feels very solid and well-built and I have no doubt that it will at least meet, if not exceed, the OEM part it replaced.NOTE: Make sure to check the number of pins on your transfer case motor electrical plug prior to ordering. GM used 5-pin and 7-pin versions on these vehicles and the easiest way to check is to just get under your vehicle and take a look. Mine used the 7-pin, which is more of a rectangle plug whereas the 5-pin is more of an oval. You can easily unplug and verify by counting the pins though. The 5-pin version is .

I bought this to replace the transfer case motor on my 2006 Envoy XL. I think the problem with my original motor was actually in the encoder (contained in the motor, but replaceable separately). My symptoms were that whenever I'd shift out of 2 wheel hi and then back, the next time I'd start the vehicle, the transfer case selector would say I was in neutral, even though it really wasn't. Also, I noticed that if I'd shift the transfer case into neutral and then jack the rear end up and spin the tires I could hear grinding in the transfer case, like it wasn't quite in neutral. Tried putting the transfer case in neutral once, and then started the car and put the transmission in drive and then reverse, and again, a lot of grinding from the transfer case. I'm fairly certain that I could have just replaced the encoder, but at almost $80 for the encoder, I figured I'd just replace the whole motor since the original was pretty rusty anyway. It's been almost a month and all the symptoms have disappeared.Installation is pretty simple. Pretty much just unplug the wiring harness and unbolt the 4 bolts to get the original off. It's easily accessible and really no hassle. Just remember to have your transfer case in 2 wheel hi before you remove the original motor. The motor and shaft are "keyed" so it'll only go on one way.I will update this if I have any problems, but so far, so good. Seems to be a solidly built unit.**UPDATE 4/15/2014Approximately one month after installing this it started to fail. I would drive for maybe 20 miles, sometimes more, sometimes less, and the check 4-wheel drive light would come on. About a month after that the light was just on full time. Being this was so new I made the mistake of thinking the problem had to be elsewhere. It was a bitterly cold winter here in Minnesota, so I didn't feel like messing around with the 4 wheel drive system anyways, although it wasn't fun driving without it on some days. Now that it warmed up I decided to have a look. I noticed that when the motor would try to shift, it sounded pretty weak. Like it was trying to work, but not really able to. I popped the motor off, and luckily still had the original, so I swapped that one back on, and the check 4-wheel drive light immediately turned off, and I was able to shift through all the positions. I decided to take the motor apart to see what the issue was and found a pinched connector inside. Basically where the two halves of the motor bolt together there is an area machined out and an electrical connector in there. The problem is that the machining doesn't line up on both halves so one side of the connector got smashed/pinched, causing a poor connection. At this point the only fix would be to cut the wires and solder them, but I'm not sure if I want to mess around with this hunk of crap anymore. It's good for the scrap yard, and that's about it. I still have the same issues with my original motor, but at least it works for now. I'll probably look for a different brand and most likely go with a re-manufactured unit. I'll be staying far away from another Doorman.