I bought four of these switches in 2017 and so far two have failed in the last 2 months. The switch itself would constantly create an internal clicking noise, where the blue LED will continually flash. I had been using the switches as part of a routine with Samsung SmartThings, to turn on and off based on sunset sunrise.

after 4 years it died, so cost 10x more than the electricity it saved... not worth buying new ones every 4 years....However it is very convenient..

Funciona excelente

I bought two of these switches. Within the warranty period one stopped working properly. The problem was that sometimes the switch would get stuck. The lights would stay on and I would try to manually turn them off or on and nothing would happen. The switch sounded like it was working, but the lights it was supposed to control would just stay on. The indicator light on the switch would also turn on and off when you manually tried to rock the switch or use the Z wave hub controller to turn the switch on and off, but the lights it was supposed to control would not turn off. The only way to fix this was by pulling the airgap plug and pushing it back in and resetting the switch. This never worked on the first try, it always took several tries to get this procedure to work. I call GE customer care and they forwarded me to Jasco. When I got a hold of Jasco customer service the first time, the switch magically started working again. They told me that they made a note attached my phone number indicating that I was having this issue and that I should call back If the issue started up again. 7 months later the issue reappeared and I called Jasco customer service back. This time they said because I was out of warranty and could not provide proof of purchase that showed the switches were in warrantee that I was out of luck. I pointed out that we don’t actually ever touch the switches, they are just controlled wirelessly through a Z wave hub and therefore are deteriorating somehow inside their components and not working anymore, but they did not care. They did not offer any kind of support for the switch. There is a clear difference in how this switch sounds when turning on and off as compared to the other switch that I have which is working properly.I will not be buying wireless light switches made by Jasco or GE in the future.

We use these all over our house in combination with a SmartThings hub, two Echo Dots and a Big Echo. I used to buy them in the USA because the price in Canada was ridiculously high. But, these ones (identical) were reasonably priced. We've had no failures so far. We have ours set up so that the hall lights come on when we unlock our doors (also Z-wave). Another good use is on our Xmas tree circuits...much handier than the timer switch we used to use. We also use them to trurn on all our lights should our intrusion detector be set off while we are away...hopefully will scare off intruders. The Smart Things hub warns us it has happened and then we can look around the house using our smart phones and cameras (also bought on Amazon).

Let me start by saying that I have a large number of smart devices in my home all integrated through Wink. I have lighting controlled by a variety of means, including bulbs and smart outlets on power strips. This Smart Light Switch by GE is by far the most reliable way to have smart light controls.For a quick comparison of the methods I have used:Smart Bulbs: Very convenient and work in any light fixture that the bulb fits into. Convenience is the biggest factor, and they are relatively inexpensive if there are few bulbs in the fixture. However, if you have fixtures with more than 3 bulbs, smart switches become a more affordable option. The downside to these, in my experience, seems to be that they are more annoying to set up, less reliable, and resetting can be very difficult if they aren't working properly (if you don't get the on/off pattern timing perfect, they won't reset). Of the many smart bulbs I put in (a combo of Cree Connected and GE Link), I had multiple that required multiple resets and were not always responsive. In addition, the bulbs always need power to work with smart controls, so if someone hits the light switch to turn them off, you can't turn them back on with smart controls like Wink, SmartThings, or Amazon Echo. One last downside is that each bulb is triggered with its own command from the smart home management system, so they come on in a wave. One upside to these is adding smart control to a ceiling fan running off of only one wall switch. With the ceiling fan, you can put in smart bulbs and use those to control the lights without turning off the whole fan if you don't want to use the cord.Smart Switch: Definitely my favorite method. These are extremely reliable in comparison to other methods. Only took me 1 try to get each of them connected to the hub and they have always responded since I set them up a few weeks ago. I have never had to reset any of them. In addition, you can turn the lights off at the switch and still have them work with your smart home configurations if you want to turn them back on. The downside is the price, as smart bulbs are often found for $10-$15 each, so if you don't need more than 3, the switch is definitely more expensive. In addition, installation is a bit more complicated as you have to wire the switch into the wall, whereas bulbs can just be plugged in as usual.Smart Power Strips: I have the Pivot Power Genius. It is a bit slow and somewhat unreliable. It frequently turns off on its own. It is very inexpensive now, but just a reliable lighting control. I don't recommend this method. I can't compare to other smart outlets, though.In short, this switch is great. It is reliable, relatively easy to install, and not very expensive. If you want smart controls in a fixture with more than 3 bulbs, this is the way to go. If you want smart controls for fixtures with less than 3 bulbs and don't mind the extra cost, this is the way to go. Eventually, I plan on replacing as many smart bulbs as possible with these smart switches because they are much more convenient to use and much more reliable. I would highly recommend this smart switch because it works so well and is less expensive than competitor switches (like Leviton). Awesome product

My only complaint is that the tabs that you are supposed to break off do not come off easily. I tried various pliers and cutters, and ended up just using my dremel to make the "pre-cut" cut deeper so that I could use pliers. Depending on how good/drunk you are with a dremel this can be a quick task or a longer one. Anyways I was installing quite a few of these so once I had my system down it was pretty easy, but you just need to make sure you plan ahead and know where each switch will be and take off the edges BEFORE you install them. If you're comparing these to the Linears, those tabs come off really easy with pliers.So for the actual switch, I will be comparing the GE 12722 + 12723 combo directly with the Linear WS15Z-1 + WT00Z-1 combo.Quick bit of knowledge: I am not an electrician so some of this is probably obvious and possibly incorrect. A 3-way setup involves two switches with a traveler going between the two. A 4-way setup involves 3 (or more) switches, with the "4-way" terminology being that one switch in the setup has two ins and two outs, this switch is connected to TWO switches instead of just one.So first off is price (and prices being the price as of writing this). The 12722 is $40, the accessory switches (12723) are $20. For Linear the main switch is $29 and the "accessory switches" are $34.50. In a 3-way setup GE would cost you $60 and the Linear would cost you $63.50. In a 4-way setup with 3 switches GE would cost you $80 and Linear would cost you $98. I made the mistake of reading the OLD reviews for the GE 45xxx switches which were rated pretty unfavorably, so I initially went with Linear, and now I have a frankenstein combination of GE/Jasco and Linear switches. The Linears will only save you money if you are replacing individual switches that are not in a multi-switch set up.The GEs can do a true 3-way / 4-way / multi-way setup, meaning that if an EMP wipes out your server and your z-wave network dies, you can still turn off the light to your dungeon from the switch on the false wall in the kitchen. The Linears are a virtual multi-switch and do not have the ability to incorporate a traveler wire. The ability to control one light from the other has nothing to do with with the wiring, the control of both devices is dependent on your Z-Wave controller. As far as I know GE doesn't have a native virtual switch, however (at least in Homeseer) I can have the Linear WT00Z control any device on my network, so if I did need to add a remote switch to control my GE lights I could use one of those to do so.Color. The switches in my house were standard white, I believe they were Levitons. No idea if this is just the type of white I had for my switches, but the GEs match perfectly whereas the Linears are a slightly different shade of white. It's not really noticeable, but when you have one Linear between two GEs you can tell if you look at them close enough.LEDs. GE: Blue; Linear: Green. Up to you.Installation. GE hands down wins here. The GE switches use punch in terminals and the Linears require wire nuts. The problem with wire nuts is that it adds more bulk to your gang box, and I probably would have punched a hole in my wall before managing to cram three Linears into a 3-way box. The GEs just use the existing wires, save for a wire nut required for the Neutral, which you should just be able to take off from the existing bundle of neutral wires and add it to them (reusing the wire nut that's already there). As mentioned above, it is way easier to remove the metal tabs from the Linears than it is for the GEs. On that note however, the metal on the Linears is much thinner than that of the GEs. The GEs feel as robust as the mechanical switches I took out of the wall, the Linears feel cheap and the metal can bend if you're not careful.All said and done both products work well but if I was purchasing again I would have just done all GE. The Linears that I bought mostly went into single-gang boxes so that I could use the wall plate they come with in order to have the colors match. I'm hesitant to give much in the way of installation tips as I am far from a professional, but if you're wondering what to do with the original line and load wires in a 3-way set up I was told to tie them together with a wire nut since they're not being used. In a 4-way set up you need find the 4-way device and wire nut the two travelers with a pig tail that will then plug into the accessory switch. Know that there are numerous methods for multi-switch setups, and GE doesn't use any of them, so you need to understand how your set up works in order to incorporate the GEs.I highly recommend getting a non-contact voltage tester, a wire tracer/tone generator, and if you live in a house built more than a few years ago make sure you have neutral wires hidding behind the wall switches so you don't waste your time.

BackgroundI'd installed 8 z-wave switches / dimmers into another new house with a Z-Wave Vera Lite so quite familiar with the process. Also not shy about when having an electrician on site getting them to do it as they're so much quicker! So I seem to go 6 - 12 months between installing Z-wave switches. Just enough time to think I'm good but forget the messy details.So this time around a brand new house. A Vera 3 (couldn't hold on for a Vera pro or 4). It's hard to review this product without context of usage so there's a bit of bumpf about my stack.Installation20 minutes for the first, eventually down to 5 for the last. The messiness was determining which neutral wire to use!At these prices I'm not going to Z-wave every switch and I haven't done dual switches yet. I tend to use at least a lamp plug-ins for each room, and for switches go for security high impact - front door, back door, garage shop, garage drive way, dining room, kitchen. Also discovered a new trick with Vera which can do an extra power pulse to associated multiple devices in one go.UsageSo the light switch just works. No complaints nor unreliability. I do keep a spare switch just in case but in 2 years at prior house, and 6 months at current (no pun intended), no reliability issues.Compared with the lutrons it is a quieter switch, and cheaper. And it has a nifty little pull out kill switch if you choose to turn off juice while swapping bulbs which I have never done.Our area is getting gentrified so much new construction, and my UPS tells me, much unplanned power cuts. No reliability issues even in those circumstances.Rating4 stars as it just works. 5 stars will be when price drops below $50.