The board is inexpensive, I keep a spare on hand since it fits so many of the furnaces I service. Before swapping boards, label any matching color wires with the corresponding terminal labels. Then take a bunch of pictures from multiple angles. Some older boards have some of the terminals in different positions than this replacement. Make sure that the wires go to matching terminals, not just matching locations on the new board. The thermostat terminals work better than the original, no need to hook the wires around the screw, they are secure under the square screw washer.

Installed easy within 20 min. Fixed my blower fan cycling on and off a few times after call for heat is done.

It fixed my furnace fan issue. Instructions were good. Says the relays are solid state but they aren’t On the original board the big ice cube relays were made by Omron - this board, the relays are made by “Wong-Hong low brand”; wish these relays were made by tyco, omron, etc. Oh well price was right and it fixed my issue

The unit appears to be of better quality than the original. It installed quickly without any problems. The furnace has been working well since the new unit was installed. So the alternative is a new furnace?

Fixed my furnace blower problem which kicked on and off several times after each thermostat shutdown.

Fit perfectly into the space and connected easily. However the fan controller turns the fan on and off when starting the burners while fan is set to on.

Works great. Original replacement. Very good price. I had the problem of the fan would turn off and on several times as the furnace was shutting down. One of the old relays was shot. This was the perfect solution to my problem. I probably aged $300-$400 getting this part and installing it myself.

My old Carrier forced-air gas furnace was acting up, with the blower getting stuck on, but no warm air coming out. The problem was that the relay on the furnace's circuit board controlling the blower was getting stuck in the on position, never allowing the furnace to complete its cycle. I could tell because when I removed the furnace's service panel and gave the area around the circuit board a light tap with the handle of a screwdriver I could observe the relay get unstuck and the blower immediately turn off. After that, the furnace could again go most of the way through a heating cycle (pilot on, main burner on, blower on, main burner off), but with the blower again getting stuck on at the end.Replacement of the board was relatively straightforward. The components on the new board look somewhat different than the old one (mostly because it uses smaller solid state relays rather than big mechanical relays), but the dimensions of the board itself are identical, and the connectors are basically in the same positions. The only significant differences I noticed were:1. The positions of the COM and HI blade connectors were swapped on the new board relative to the old one. But, this isn't a problem since they are clearly labeled on both circuit boards and the blades were close enough to each other not to present any problem with wire length.2. The binding posts for the thermostat wires on the old circuit board were designed to wrap the wire around the screws, while the new binding posts were designed to slip the wires under the screws. The binding posts on the new one are a definite improvement, but you might want to straighten your thermostat wires with a pair of needle nose pliers so they fit better on the new circuit board.Before removing any wires from the original circuit board, be sure to take several pictures from different angles showing where the wires connect to on the circuit board and where they come from on the furnace. Label them if possible with the corresponding labels on the circuit board. You cannot rely just on wire color, because wire colors are repeated (at least on my furnace). You might want to use needle nose pliers and/or a small flathead screwdriver to help slip the blade connectors off.--------------------Notes on troubleshooting furnace problems:If you're reading this review, your furnace is probably acting up and you're wondering whether replacing your furnace's circuit board with this one will fix your problem. I am just an average do-it-yourselfer, not a furnace expert, but I will attempt to impart what little I've learned over the years working on old gas furnaces of my own.First of all, it helps to understand the basic steps in a furnace heating cycle, since things can go wrong any step of the way. On an old gas furnace, a normal heating cycle looks like this:1. When the air temperature drops below the thermostat's set point, the thermostat signals the circuit board to begin a heating cycle by connecting the RH wire (24 Volt AC) to the W wire.2. The furnace lights the pilot light by turning on the piezo-electric sparker (you can hear the repeated clicking sounds) and opening the pilot light gas supply valve.3. To avoid turning on the gas to the main burner before the pilot light is on, there is a sensor probe inside the pilot flame that must be heated up first. When it is, the main burner is turned on by opening the main gas valve.4. About a minute or so after the main burner turns on, the circuit board switches on the blower and warm air is blown through the ducts to heat the house.5. After the air temperature rises above the set point by a sufficient amount, the thermostat signals the circuit board to end the heating cycle by disconnecting the RH wire from the W wire, causing the gas to the burner and pilot light to be turned off.6. The blower will continue to run for about a minute after this, until the circuit board shuts it off.On step 3, if the pilot light lights but the main burner never turns on, it may be because the sensor probe is faulty. One way to test this is to apply the flame of a portable propane torch directly to the probe to heat it up. If the main burner ignites soon after this then the probe might need replacing. This is relatively inexpensive.On step 4, if the blower never turns on, then there are a couple of things that might be wrong. If the blower makes a humming sound like a stalled motor, then the start capacitor might be faulty. This is a device in a metal can, about the size of a deck of cards, often attached to the blower. A capacitor stores and releases electrical charge, helping the motor start up smoothly. As it ages, a capacitor may lose capacitance or it may develop increased parasitic resistance, both of which can prevents it from doing its job. Replacing the capacitor is easy and very inexpensive ($5 to $10). There are a few ways to test for a bad capacitor:1. If the capacitor is obviously bulging out, then it's probably bad and should be replaced.2. Use a meter to measure the capacitance and equivalent series resistance (ESR) of the capacitor. First look at the label on the capacitor to determine the nominal capacitance, and look up the part number online to determine the nominal ESR. Many multimeters have a function for measuring capacitance. If the capacitance is below the nominal value by a significant amount, replace the capacitor. ESR measurement capability is usually not included on multimeters, and measuring it requires specialized equipment. If you have that equipment, and the capacitor's ESR is higher than spec, replace the capacitor.3. If reaching in and gently spinning the blower motor causes it to start and run normally, then the start capacitor is probably bad. Obviously, this has to be done very carefully because of issues of high voltage and fingers near spinning blower blades.IMPORTANT: Start capacitors can store charge at high voltage and must be discharged before handling or testing. Failure to do this can cause injury to people or damage to test equipment. One way to safely discharge the capacitor is to touch the terminals of a 120V incandescent light bulb across the terminals of the capacitor and holding for a second or two. Using a screwdriver across the terminals to discharge is not necessarily a good idea since all the energy is released at once, which in rare cases could cause the capacitor to explode.On step 6, if the blower never shuts off, it could be because of a stuck relay on the circuit board. You can check this by opening up the furnace and gently tapping on or around the circuit board with the handle of a screwdriver. If the stuck relay releases and the blower turns off, then the circuit board should be replaced. Relays stuck in the on or off position could cause problems in other parts of the cycle. The troubleshooting technique is the same in those instances. (Note: A relay is an electromechanical switch that can be turned on or off by applying a voltage.)Another issue that might cause the blower not to turn off is a tripped circuit breaker on the furnace itself. The furnace has one or more circuit breakers (thermal and/or current) that can trip in certain circumstances. When this happens, one of the possible failure modes is the blower being stuck on. Inspect the outside housing of the furnace for circuit breaker reset buttons and try pressing them. They aren't always obvious. These are a good idea to check regardless of the symptoms, since they are easy to check and free to fix.

Our new ICM271 fan blower control board with solid-state relays works great to replace the old electromechanical relay board that had a sticking relay. The ICM271 was delivered by Patriot via U.S. Mail in four days and it took only a few minutes to install it in our 30 year old gas heater and A/C unit. The board was a good fit, the same size and shape as the old board but its design will require a different cover as the thermostat wires protruded from the board more than on the old board. Not a big deal and I will leave the cover off for at least a little while. Also, all but two of the connections were identical to the old board using the same quick-connect terminals and the screw terminals for the thermostat wires. The two connections that were different were simply switched are the HI and LO connections to one of the solid-state relays. I am very happy so far but I have only initially tested the board and hopefully it will work fine throughout the winter. And the price was very good, $100 cheaper than one from a local appliance parts distributor.

My aging Bryant furnace was acting up and I traced the problem to the control board (HH84AA011). I could not find a new original board but used ones are available. Turns out the ICM271 as a new replacement was actually cheaper than the best price I could find on a used original board. The board swap was easy and the ICM271's physical fit was perfect. There was one small issue during the install. The old board had a rigid metal jumper connection between the GAS1 and GAS3 terminals. However on the ICM271 board the spacing between the GAS1 and GAS3 terminals are slightly wider and therefore the rigid metal jumper from the old board was not reusable. I was able to make a new small jumper wire and the rest of the install was easy. The new ICM271 board works great and operates without issues.