とてもパワフルで満足です。ローパスフィルターで１００Khz以下の音をこのアンプで増幅して、振動デフューザーをつないでいます。オルガンの音を自分で弾きながら楽しんでいます。ベースが青いランプを点滅させて地響きを立てています。

Lo pondria como ultima opcion de compra, el envio y la entrega muy bien, pero el producto en si deja mucho que desear no es lo que esperaba no tiene la potencia que dice tener y los bajos no son buenos, pero a razon de precio/calidad creo esta bien

It's ouput power doesn't feel like 40W. I am totally disappointed.....

There are plenty of reviews detailing the features of this amp, so I'm going to discuss my specific setup, what worked for me, and what didn't.I purchased this amp to power the audio for my Burning Man bicycle, which is using a Tang Band W8-670C 8" 8ohm subwoofer in a ported enclosure, and two Tang Band W3-594SB 3" 8ohm drivers in sealed enclosures.MOSFET's, heat, and thermal pasteMy amp doesn't get very warm, even after an extended period of music at high volume. Several other reviewers reported poor factory application of thermal paste, so I was concerned that the heatsink wasn't getting warm due to the MOSFET's not making good contact. I opened it up to check and they looked just fine, but I went ahead and re-applied some thermal paste for good measure. After doing this I haven't noticed any difference in performance or temperature.CrossoverThe LPF crossover is a total joke. Mine "works" in that I can hear an audible change in the subwoofer output as I turn the knob, but the amp still sends the subwoofer nearly full-range input. Using only the included crossover, the overall audio quality is mediocre, and both the subwoofer and drivers were clipping well below the volume I had hoped for.I ended up purchasing a 225hz LPF crossover (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FNI3N4Y/), and it made a world of difference. The overall volume can now get much louder without clipping, the subwoofer hits harder, and the drivers sound great. With the crossover installed, this no longer sounds like a cheap ~$30 amplifier. If you are using this to power a subwoofer, do yourself a favor and get a crossover! You won't regret it!Power SourceThe included 12V 3A power supply works acceptably, but prevents the amp from reaching full volume. I've had the best luck with either a 12V 5A power supply, or a 12V SLA battery. Checking with an ammeter, the highest current I saw at full volume (with a bass-heavy track) was just over 4A @ 12V.RattlingI have this amp mounted on the subwoofer enclosure, and I quickly discovered that it likes to rattle. All of the knobs rattle, as does the case. The case rattling can be solved by putting some hot glue on the inside of the seams where the case pieces attach, but I'm still grappling with the rattling knobs. My "best" solution so far is a piece of electrical tape stretched across the tops of all of the knobs, but I'm sure there is a better way to do it.Audio Input LevelsOne unexpected problem is that a high input voltage is required for the amp to reach maximum volume. I first used a second generation iPod Shuffle. This worked in that sound came out of the speakers, but it just didn't get particularly loud. I then tried two modern Android phones (an LG G2 and an HTC One M8). The HTC produced the highest volume and clearest sound, but both it and the LG worked pretty well. You should try a variety of input sources if you're not happy with the volume.Final ThoughtsBuy this amp (and a crossover)! I wasn't expecting much from a sub $30 amp, but it's a surprisingly cool little device.

ＬＥＰＹ　ＬＰ－Ｖ３Ｓ　から乗り換えサブウーハーを「繋がない状態」で試聴、低音はＬＰ－Ｖ３の方が出ていた純粋に聞いた感じだとメインは高音設定に振ってある様子（サブウーハー出力あるから当たり前？）せっかくのＢＡＳＳコントロールがいまいち発揮されないただサブウーハーを「繋いだ状態」だと五月蠅い位ブンブン鳴る、クロスオーバーが付いている点も良いこちらの方が出力がでかいのでちょっとのボリュームででかい音が鳴る！！素敵ですウーハー出力側は当たり前だがＢＡＳＳコントロール別駆動なのでなのでつまみ位置に依存せずなので前に書いた通りメインにもっと低音が欲しい感じでもったいない全体のバランスはいいんじゃないかな高音も綺麗に出ている感じがあるし、低音もＬＰ－Ｖ３に比べるとＢＡＳＳコンに頼らずブンブン鳴る感じも良好（ＳＵＢありきだが）コスパは相変わらず良いと思うパソコンのスピーカーから等システムＵＰしたい方にはオススメです家もＰＣで音楽を聴く方なので重宝していますよ、余ったＬＰ－Ｖ３はサラウンド用にでも回します評価はメインでＢＡＳＳコントロールがいまいちだったので☆１個マイナスにしました

Reviewer background: I'm a relatively intermediate audiophile with many purchases of amplifiers and speakers creating a variety of systems for varying applications so I'd like to think this review has some credit. Having random drivers laying around left over from previous projects, I decided to make myself a soundbar for the bedroom which houses 4@2" full ranges (2 per side) sandwiching supporting 1" tweeters crossed at 3.5 khz and a 4" ported sub in the center; used '" maple GIS mdf core for enclosure. Now, enough of that, just describing intended use in case it helps.Discovering this amp a few months ago on Parts Express, it was my default choice (not too many options in 2 channel/sub amp combos with built in variable crossover) with small footprint, efficiency and just the perfect amount of RMS power; also love the LP-2020A+ which I've had for about 2 years and use for many driver testing applications due to its extreme portability. (using a 6amp power supply provides more power output and broader oundstage)Now Sound and power ratings. Reading a whack of reviews, people are brutal hard on this guy; just in case they forget.... It is an under $50ca -4/3 channel amp (two bridged for sub out) with free shipping.... Not a $700 mid ranged Denon/Onkyo/HK... so keep the biases at that level. It must have an updated power supply as well for some reviewers were talking about a 1.5 amp whereas mine came with a 3 amp which is quite sufficient, (may upgrade to 5a later to maximize though). I just received last night and haven't used all 3 channels combined yet but using a pair of high end bookshelves, hooked up the 2 channel full range channels then the sub out to one bookshelf and am extremely impressed. More power than some of the reviewers complaints estimating 8 RMS main and 20 sub @ 8ohms). Doesn't sound like much, but that is RMS, Dynamic will be way higher.The soundstage is clean, fully covering the 20hz-20khz spectrum, not a high current solid sound but still great for price point and my intended application. Also against other reviewers, the built in variable (50-200) crossover worked fine cutting out frequencies probably at about a 12db/octave curve above the set limit; perfect for smaller sub. Would suggest not using a sub driver above a 6" though due to the power limitations versus loss in QMS/QES resistance; larger sub will never reach close to SPL potential or Xmax either (maybe a cheap 8"). The sub channel and mains do have independent volume controls but once set, the source input should be your volume control anyway and this is a great option for sources with weaker/stonger low end signal or just adjusting to audio preferences (bass head versus the classical listener).The only con thus far is a ridiculous bright blue LED representing use of the sub channel, which would be fine if it stayed a constant but for some reason the designer installed a chip in the output circuit that flashes the LED in response to the bass frequency!?!? Why? Oh, and unless you speak Chinese, toss the manual immediately! Anybody who know enough to find/order this amp, will have enough basic audio knowledge to install/operate this unit however.Overall, impressed with performance, ease of use and aesthetics. As I stated before, will update with actual performance stats when free time becomes available. In the meantime, if this amp is a nominee in completing an audio work of art, don't bother over analyzing it's worth... it's a worthy purchase; equal cost to three jugs of beer and will keep a smile on the face longer... and more than one use.Any further questions/inquiries just post in comments below.Edit July/2104:Unit going strong, feels great hitting that power toggle knowing performance soon follows. However I switched its task from soundbar to outside music provider; I was wrong about sub size restrictions, using a relatively efficient single VC 10" subwoofer (4ohms) and 6.5" coaxials in custom boxes (all fits in big Rubbermaid tote) and my yard has the possibility of hosting a block party. Amazing output above neighborly limits, clear and potent. 10" sub actually hits descent mechanical extension with provided crossover at 80 hert cut off.This fantastic product for price amp should be all one needs for anything except Home theatre use, and even then if no need for 5.1 then this 2.1 would be sufficient.

First off, Me I have 14 years experience working on military electronics, and 18 years personal experience working with, building, and repairing audio equipment...So we have a little 2.1 Amp, listed as a 2x40Watt and 1x68W... so ok I automatically assume that those are max peak numbers, normally peak is listed as 1.5 - 2 times the RMS output so I expect to get an inexpensive 2x20Watt 1x34w amp.... NOPE...THE SHORT:this is a Very poorly build and very misrepresented product...Real SPECS: 2 Channels @ 7 Watts RMS and 1 Channel @ 28 Watts RMS @ 10% THD2 Channels @ 2 Watts RMS and 1 Channel @ 12 Watts RMS @ 1% THDHonestly don't waste your money.THE LONG:Testing Setup:I tested using 3 different power supply's :#1 : The stock 12V 3A (36W) it comes with.#2 : A switchable 12,15,16,18,19,20V 4.5A (90W) universal laptop supply.#3 : A 15V 40A (600W) Meanwell Switching power supply.Two different loads:#1: 2x 4ohm 50W Boston acoustic 4" drivers, and a pair of HiVi F10's (10" 100W driver) in parallel for a 4ohm load#2: 4ohm 3600W dummy loads.test equipment:ATTEN ADS 1062 60Mhz oscilloscopeFluke FM27 Digital multimeterAudio tool App on a android based phone (signal gen and basic RTA) using a Dayton iMM calibrated Mic.So I unpack the amp and check its Power supply... no problems, 56mv RMS of ripple, max I could pull out of it was 3.2A @ 11.6V, so it meets its specs...I hook it up and connect the 4" speakers.then i connect the source to it and run a 1KHz test tone at 320mV RMS into the RCA Jacks:Max output was 5.6V RMS, or 7.8Watts per channel... and there is a LOT of distortion compared to the input signal, and an odd pulsing fuzz on the o-scope... Hmmmnext I test the sub output... using a 100Hz test tone this time, still 320mV input, at max I got 9.6V RMS or about 21.6Watt. Again there is a LOT of distortion and that pulsing Fuzz on the O-scope...next I use the 15V setting on the 90W laptop supply:32mV RMS ripple on the PSU, and it will put out 5.8A...The Amp still maxes out at about 8W for the 2 main channels but I get 10.6V RMS or about 28W from the sub output now...Still have the distortion and the fuzz on the O-scope...finally I switch to the 4ohm dummy loads and the 600W Meanwell power supply.15mV RMS ripple and WAY more amperage than this little amp could ever use...Still 8W per channel, and 28W for the sub...no change in distortion or that odd fuzz...so next I test the amp with no signal, that fuzz is still there independent of the volume controls, it looks somewhat like ringing noise discharging thru a capacitor...so I tear the amp down... the preamp and tone controls use a 4558D dual op amp, not Bad, but far from good.the main amplifiers are a TDA7266 and a TDA7256...the TDA7266 is a 7 W + 7 W dual bridge amplifier, you can look up its data sheet.... it's RATED at 7W @ 10% THD per channelor 2W @ 1% THD (100Hz to 15KHz)...The TDA7256 is a 30W Bridge Amplifier rated for 30W @ 10% THD or 12W @ 1% THD...next I look over the layout, and I notice that the entire power load is going thru a single 20AWG jumper wire... there is a set of holes for there to be a Pair of jumpers but only one was used... then I see on the Ground side it's the same way, only it's only 22AWG!there is No inductor on the main power line just a 2700uf 16V cap. and a 3A protection diode.And as others mentioned there was almost no heatsink compound on the main amplifier chips.AT this point I stopped testing, I had intended to test its output response curve, and see what was wrong with the "crossover" it includes. But really I have no use for a 7 watt amp... I have built Pre-amps that could put out that at less than 0.03% THD... let alone 10%...so really don't waste your money, for the cost of this amp you can go down to Walmart, K-mart, Biglots, or whatever and buy a 2.1 computer speaker set and strip the amp from it, and be better off...