OK so I tried this after having a cracked tank on an Eljer from 2011. Menard's guy sold me on this model because it is manufactured in the US (instead of just "America," which meant Mexico for the American Standard).However, I ran into some major frustration. I had to decide which was less of a PITA - boxing the entire unit back up and hauling it up the stairs/back to the store or finding a bowl spacer."What's a bowl spacer?" you ask.Well, see, we have a basement bathroom, poured concrete with ceramic tile floor and the closet flange sits on top of the tile. Look in any install manual or on the back of any hardware install box, specs manual, etc. -- one of the three "standard" positions for a closet flange (above floor, flush with floor, below floor, FYI). The flange is sitting a total of 1/2" above the tile floor. Again, this is standard. IF anything, my flange is 15/32" for the nitpickers.I get everything laid out and remove the old Eljer, which sat very firmly in place on the same floor with a wax ring. I use a waxless ring for this one as they were reviewed well. This toilet rocks in all 4 directions when mounted."WTF," I'm thinking a "standard" toilet in a "standard" install shouldn't have this issue. So I open up the installation instructions only to find they allow a maximum flange height of 5/16". Yep, Mansfield has decided to redefine what "standard" means for no clear f****** reason. It is not as if the design of the bowl would be affected by that 3/16" but to hell with the consumer!As I said above now I have a choice - pack it all up and haul it back and maybe get a replacement that fits after another hour or so IF they have one in stock (I had to order this one). OR I could find a bowl spacer, which is a rigid, water-resilient surface between the tile and bowl that elevates the bowl high enough so it won't rock. There are many expensive ways to do this but it requires fab work at the very least and much more time, or I could start cutting away tile, digging into the poured floor to cut off the flange and replace that. The thinnest one they have is only 1/16" or so thinner so I would probably waste my time there.Or I could just shim the ever-loving f*** out of the back and sides of the bowl and hope it works. That is what I ended up doing after spending 3 hours for a half-hour job.Oh, then, the seat with those "standard" plastic bolts? They are so weak the screwdriver tore right through them. I think I'll be removing those with a drill bit when the time comes.So far, it doesn't seem to be leaking after about a dozen flushes but Mansfield really dropped the ball on this design. Things should be easier to install than they were 20 years ago. I guess Mansfield is innovative in that they went in the opposite direction. Everyone ELSE is making things easier so WE should be DIFFERENT!First and last Mansfield for me. I'd rather have a chamber pot than deal with this again.Maybe a stone chimney to a moat.

Just a note on Mansfield's post-sales technical support. Conventional plunger design doesn't seal well with the "non-round" outlet of this toilet. When I enquired of the technical department at Mansfield regarding a suitable plunger for their design, they replied . . ."[Mansfield does] not have a recommendation for a plunger, it would be best to ask at a hardware store what they recommend for using on current toilet styles. I am sure they have some good selections out there but I do not have any idea what the best would be."While the toilet (ours is the BWL 384 Summit) is in all other ways perfect for our ADA household, that a company does not want to ensure the proper functioning of their product in normal use is surprising.So, if you have ever had need to plunge a toilet, check out the alternative plungers for your choice of toilet, as there are few alternatives available.