Nice sand paper

Perfect fit on the drum sander.

Product is as described, fits sander and works good

Good price and quality.

worked great.

I've purchased maybe 6 or 7 rolls of this paper in 60, 100, and 150 grit. I use it in my 18-36 Grizzly drum sander and I get 5 pieces per roll for my sander. I don't have anything to compare it to as this is the only brand I've purchased, but I have no complaints. Specifically:- It fits as it should and is easy to cut- The paper backing is tough and I haven't had it come apart- The grit seems accurate- It lasts a while, especially the coarser grits, and especially if you clean it properly- If I use a good feed rate I don't get any burningNot sure what else to say but I'll continue to buy this brand as it has treated me well. (Going to buy some more 150 now.)

I replaced the sandpaper i had always used from the machine manufacturer when a new roll developed a problem on the 3rd board i ran on it. I was using maple and it picked up something from a knot which transfered to everything i did after as a burn mark. I could not get it off the sandpaper until i used a sharp object on it. This paper loaded easier, was more consistent in sanding, no streak lines and 1/3 the cost of the original.

The sandpaper description said that it would have markings on the back so I could follow the guide lines to cut to the correct size for my drum sander. I wanted this so as to make it easier to fit. I am dissatisfied with this purchase.

Sableuse à tambour

When I got my drum sander I picked up pre-cut rolls of 3M emery cloth (retail), which cost about $9 each when you broke it all down, and they would typically last no more than 20 minutes because, for some reason, any little bit of resin or glue, or any sticky imperfection in the wood would get stuck to it, and just build up until the whole thing was garbage. It never came off, and ended up burning a scar into whatever I was trying to sand. That doesn't seem to happen with this brand, and I get a lot more wear out of each strip. When anything sticks, so far, it wears off, and the emery cloth works again.Plus it costs about a quarter as much per strip.

I recently purchased a Supermax 16/32 drum Sander. I bought a roll of 120, & 220 grit at my local woodworking store. It was their store brand of sandpaper. Sanding on a 28" wide panel after about 8-10 passes, the spor's brand would rip where it attached to the drum. I cut several strips of paper with each grit, and always the same result. Comparing the paper to the 80 grit that came with my sander, I could tell that the 80 grit was a much thicker paper. I immediately ordered this paper from Amazon. It arrived in 2 days. Very happy with it. Paper is much thicker than the local store brand. It hasn't ripped, and works very well. It should last me a very long time. I highly recommend this product.

I purchased this for use in my drum sander.A much more economical way to buy drum sander paper then the pre-cut variety.One needs to keep a pre-cut piece so you can use it as a pattern to but out a section from this roll.The paper cuts easily with scissor but scissor will dull quickly cutting the abrasive.Good quality paper that holds its abrasiveness well and the belt is strong and never broke in my drum sander.This is the exact width required for my chinese made generic sander.

Not so hard to cut using your old strip as a guide and you save some money. The sandpaper seems like it is the same quality as the original. Now, if you are reading this you know these 15" Performax/Jet drum sanders are not all that easy to set up. They stall and trip the circuit, 1st on the drum motor and then the breaker. The wood tends to scorch and the sandpaper gets clogged up and is ruined, a problem that this cheaper sandpaper makes you feel better about.But, I came across a post in some forum someplace that I want to give credit to, but can't find again. This guy had some great ideas and they really work. I just finished a maple project, a stereo cabinet, and scorched it not once and sanded it evenly and without drama!This is how it came about:1st, unscrew that adjusting screw and remove the stupid spring. Put a 5/16th/24 nut and washer on the adjuster bolt, one above and one below the adjusting lever. The bolt is screwed back into the machine and it no longer used to adjust things, just serves as a threaded rod. The author suggested nyloc style nuts, but I couldn't find any and the regular ones seem fine. This allows you to adjust the drum in very fine increments and the adjustment won't change on you unless you really strain the drum to where things bend.Next, getting the drum parallel to the table, a monumental task.Just slightly loosen the pivot bolts, so that it can pivot but is not loose. Next, locate a metal bar, anything with parallel sides that can conduct electricity. Maybe rod, a plane on it side, etc. Raise the drum to clear this bar. Raise the little roller out of the way. You want only the main drum to contact the bar, not the pressure roller. I used hooks made from wire coat hangers. The author suggested tape.The adjustment requires an electric circuit and it was suggested that a battery, wires, alligator clips and a light was the way to do it. I simply used an cheap continuity tester that beeps when a circuit is completed. You attach one end of the tester to the drum (take off any sandpaper!) and the other to the bar. When you lower the drum and it touches the bar it completes the circuit and you get a beep or a light!This is far more precise than trying to see or feel the contact.Do the inner end of the drum first, then the outer. You will have to raise and lower the drum and adjust the nuts over and over and over before you get it exactly right. The good news is that you will possibly for the first time have it perfectly adjusted! Just a hair of a turn on the nuts changes everything. It can be made perfect. It is advised to have the outer setting just a teensy hair higher. Tighten the pivot bolts and check again.It probably took me at least an hour to do this. Don't force anything.Run the wood through so that the highest spot barely, barely touches. Set the belt feed at its higher setting. Lower the drum in very small increments. This means sending the wood through over and over and over again. Don't get antsy. Think of how much time it would take doing this by hand and how much longer it will take and how expensive it will be to burn the wood and clog up the sandpaper. Remember as the wood gets more level, more of the sandpaper contacts it and the more likely trouble will happen. Lower the drum very, very slightly each pass as you get to the end of the project.I had good luck starting with 80 grit, then 120 and then finally using a random orbit sander with 220 and 320. Even on hard maple the final sanding was pretty quick after a nice even drum sanding without cursed scorches that take forever to remove.It is highly recommended to rig up some decent dust control solution for both the drum and orbital sanders. Sanding dust is very bad for you and some people have life-altering problems from it.Wood never comes straight, so you really need to invest in a jointer to take out the concave side of a board and remove the twist. And then it really s a good idea to have a planer to then make the board sides parallel. Taking the remaining hump out of a board with a drum sander is begging for trouble. Of course the longer and wider the boards are the more trouble all this becomes and the more likely you will end up with expensive wood that is thinner than you want.Also, your glue-up procedure is very important. If the boards are of different heights then you will have to sand off all the high boards to the level of the low ones, on both sides. This is a lot of work and time, increases the possibility of drum sander drama, usually gives you a thin project as some large percentage of the wood has to be removed.You can't have too many clamps, of course, and ways to keep all of your glued-together boards even with each other. Try a few grains of on the glued edges. It keeps the boards from sliding around in the slippery glue.I suggest checking these adjustments at least between projects and half-way through big jobs, especially with irreplaceable wood.this got away from reviewing the sandpaper, but even magic sandpaper won't work unless you follow these steps.