Prothane 00-05 Mitsubishi Eclipse V6 4 Mount Kit - Red

East to install

I didn't like the fact that you have to take out the sleeves also.They fit nice and tight, now my motor and trany are real stiff and dont move around.

Buy them nowHaha

Can be a pain to put in a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT, but I did about 70,000 miles ago and they are still gong strong. Chances are you will not want to put the drivers side one in. I certainly didn't because it was too much of a pain to remove from the car. Even with the other three in and the original fourth one there is a noticeable difference in how well the engine is held in place. If you don't mind putting in the extra work, these are a great way to save money over buying the stock OEM mounts.

Came exactly as pictured, + the bushings that aren't pictured. Takes a minute to figure out which mounts go where but once you got that, its pretty easy to install. I used a vise, hacksaw, hammer, and chisel to remove the old rubber and rings. I read some reviews where they received the rear and front mounts as a solid without those 6 holes, but that's what I got. So (as pictured) its random I suppose? I didn't have to do any fabricating to get these in either. Took a little elbow grease but I was happy with the end result. My car sounds and feels so much better! I'll definitely buy again when the time comes.

My used and mostly stock 3.0L was creaking bad at low speed turns and stops (thought it was CV joints), was hard shifting (thought the transmission was beaten), and acceleration felt unusually sluggish for a kept 80k engine. It was when i saw the engine jumping while pushing the TB open to just 2500 rpm that i thought the mounts could be the issue. Found out the oem front and trans mount rubber inserts were shredded as i poked both centers out with a little thumb pressure, the passenger and rear mounts were going bad also. I hated the thought of spending 120$ for 4 of the same rubber/alum mounts. I went with red polyurethane instead- and its been the best decision ive made for this car.There's plenty of "How to"s on these things so just look em up yourselfs. A jack, 2 stands, sawzall with 24-32tpi steel blades, good table vise, a couple of socket wrenches and sockets are what i needed to swap things out. Disfiguring or cutting pieces off the prothane inserts to get them in easier is stupid and half-assed. Instead get someone with a machine press to get the front and rear 'one piece' inserts in if you cant get them in yourself. Do it correctly, I payed 10$ for both front and rear at a muffler/brake shop.Now whats to be gained from installing these are improved throttle response (much less transfer energy wasted in prothane mounts vs. broken rubber ones), no more creaking, no more heavy vibrations and noticeably smoother shifting. They'll last more than the life of your car.These fit a 3.0L sebring/stratus coupe as well, and can be fitted into automatic mounts with the same difficulty as manuals. Nevermind what Amazon says, the only difference is the automatic transmission mount's bolt holes (4) are more spaced apart than the manuals, however the inserts are the same size.-*though these are not illustrated, bushings for the center member are included.

One of the mounts cracked. Only lasted about 3 weeks.

Over the last seven years the popping and cracking coming from the right side got progressively worse. This kit was inexpensive and I feel it is superior to what was on my 2001 Mitsubishi Spyder Eclipse GT. It took several days to do the full install. The kit I got also included the lower support bar bushings! I felt like this was a bonus and my car definitely needed these bushings. The steel insert bushings were not included, so I had to fix the old ones using a welder and angle grinder. I also used the angle grinder decrease the lip on one side of the front and rear bushing so I could insert it into the mount. It was simply protruded to much and I could not insert it even with lube. I fought it for an hour before opting to trim it. Once trimmed I still had to force it with muscle and a hammer. For the $67.28 for the whole kit, I didn't expect perfection. A 30 mile test drive showed improvements. The pull to the left on acceleration was gone, the car didn't feel wobbly anymore, noises was of course gone. For the price and the fact the car no longer makes embarrassing loud popping and cracking noises in parking lots when I'm driving around, I give it 5 stars!