This part works interchangeable for Dodge Vipers at 1/2 the dealer price! If you need this part for your Viper purchase this one!

Ya instalados funcionando bien

Do not install the sensor in to far, I was unaware it had to be installed at a certain depth and the cam gear sheared off the end of the sensor, and now it's past the return date of the purchase. Had to buy another one. Unsure if the product itself is quality as of right now.

Engine is running perfect again!

Worked perfectly

Works

This is an update to my original review, I have updated the review for the following: (Please note, this darn thing has left me high and dry on the side of the road several times, and as such the updated review and rating). this sensor is an integral part - if it shorts out/stops working and sending movement data to the ecm, the ecm will automatically cut power to the fuel relay, causing the engine to die or not start depending on when this stupid sensor decides to crap the bed on you like it has me. Often there will be no CEL nor codes stored in the ecm. The only way to bypass this issue and get home is to pull the fuel pump relay and bypass it with a wire and two prongs. The best way I found to do this is to you tube the subject "bypass fuel pump relay with one wire." Once you get home, do like me and order two of these and keep that one wire bypass hack in your truck/car. The only way i was able to figure out that it was this sensor was after driving the truck with the fuel pump bypassed and eventually the ecm had a pending code P0355, yours may be different. I found this out after swapping the ecm, replacing the fuel pump MAF sensor, and camshaft sensor. I even had it towed to my mechanic only for him to say that there was a short in the fuel pump wiring harness as the ecm will still send a two second burst of voltage and then stop, driving you bonkers trying to figure out why this happens and it will give enough gas to the fuel rail to try to start the engine and quickly die making you think WTF? I hope this helps - it took me a month to figure this out on my own after pulling apart every wiring harness and fuel delivery component on my truck until I gave up and jerry rigged the fuel pump relay and as stated above found the problem. Warning - bypassing the fuel pump relay makes the pump run continuous unless you pull the wire or install a switch and remember to switch it off when done.Average life span of this sensor 1-2 years.Fits like a glove, appeared to be better made than the OEM I replaced. This part was listed for my v10 engine - this will not work for the Cummins Diesel engines. I opted to replace this sensor, the crankshaft sensor (part# 235-1116), and the MAP sensor as I was getting pulsation of engine RPM when engine was warm prior to replacement. You can ohm these parts out to identify which is bad - but I'm too lazy to do that. This part is located on the front of the engine block near the crankcase pully - it's hidden by the water pump - use a 10mm socket wrench to loosen the bolt, start and run the engine until engine block luke-warm to touch. Removal is best done with one of the front tires lifted up and crawling under the front of the truck (allows for more wiggle room). Using a small pry bar it should pop out, expect to break the dog ear on the old one getting it out - keep tip of crow bar or large flat head screw driver near flange and twist/pry out - oil on new o-ring allows for easier insert. The repair manual states a small piece of spacer with adhesive side applied to sensor to ensure optimum spacing of sensor and prevent contact with timing chain. I decided marking the old sensor dog ear on the block worked best as no spacer came with the sensor. Install is reverse of removal hope this helps...