The thickness was great. It was easy to flatten out. The bad part was the grain. There was an odd grain pattern that gave the appearance of 'bubbling' when glued down. There were also 'knots' and similar markings that take away from the overall appearance.The veneer took the adhesive well and was easy to smooth out on the project. I did use some 400 grit sandpaper to finish off the veneer prior to staining. The cost seems in line with what I received. There are higher graded veneers out there, but for my first attempt - I went with this. Overall I am satisfied.

Purchase this not knowing what to expect and I was surprised at how nice the product was and how easy it was to put on.I would definitely recommend this to anyone who's handy.

Great wood cover mdf for speakers together looks great

nice for dresser

1/2 sheet ... full price.

I was impressed with how thick the veneer was. Most companies slice their veneers so thin they're useless.Beautiful grain and color consistency throughout

This stuff worked really well for re-finishing the cabinet of my old Akai GX-280D reel-to-reel. It takes some fiddling to get right, so test it by veneering something you don't care about first. You'll need an edge trimmer (I used a Band-It edge trimmer, the yellow one), a really sharp razor knife, a can of contact adhesive, cheap chip-brushes, and some wood putty. A few tips:1. When trimming the veneer with the grain, notice which direction the grain pattern will pull the edge trimmer in towards the piece, and which it will push the trimmer away from the piece. Always cut in the direction it will push the trimmer away from the piece, or the trimmer will dig in and make a jagged edge.2. When trimming the edge that is perpendicular to the grain, don't use the edge trimmer at all. Score the underside with a razor knife, and bend it down sharply to make a clean break. Then carefully touch up the edge with sandpaper. Be careful, because these edges are where you'll potentially chip off small pieces of wood grain. If you do, you can fill these in with some wood putty after you're finished with the rest of the veneer.3. Pay particular attention to bonding edges, but don't worry too much if the edges aren't perfectly bonded. I had a couple of these. Once the piece is done, MASK OFF the wood with painter's tape, then mix some sawdust with some wood glue, and apply to the areas that didn't quite bond with the contact cement. (I used toothpicks to apply it) Pull off the tape immediately and wipe down any area that got glue on the surface with a wet cloth. Any residual glue will cause the stain to be lighter in that area.4. Use only an oil-based stain. Water-based stains will cause the veneer to warp and buckle. Oil based stains WILL NOT penetrate the paper backing, and they will not have any effect on the glue bonding wood to paper and paper to your workpiece. Finish with a polyurethane, or with tung oil and then furniture wax. (my preference)This stuff is really easy to work with, but it does lose bits and pieces on the perpendicular edge cuts if you're not really careful. Glue bonding to paper could be stronger, that's why it didn't get five stars in my book. But that's really minor. This stuff works wonders, looks great, and is very inexpensive. It takes stain well too. I'm very happy with my results!

This veneer is very nice looking. It has attractive grain to it, and it seems well made - thick, sturdy, even edges. I was annoyed about a tape mark, but it sanded off easily.I bought two of these for a project at home, covering mdf cabinets I bought at IKEA (wonderful drawers, ugly finish). It was a great project because it gave me the modern functionality I wanted, with the customized finish I preferred, for a much lower cost than buying wood furniture.I have a fair amount of home improvement experience, including working with wood, but this was the 1st time I'd worked with veneer, aside from a little edging once. I'd say this wasn't hard to work with at all. So, if you're thinking about trying a project with veneer, I can recommend this item. For those who want more details:I used contact cement for some of it, which works ok, but requires a long cure time and pressure. I switched to a quick-drying construction adhesive (Loctite - the clear-drying version) and that was easier & quicker to work with and also holds stronger.1st I'd cut a piece of veneer for an area of the cabinet, slightly larger than needed. I cut it with a utility knife, using a straight edge as a guide to keep the edges as straight as I could. It takes some effort to cut, so it's easy to veer off line. I was careful to wash my hands before handling the veneer to avoid getting dirt & oils on the unfinished wood.The construction adhesive is pretty thick stuff, so I'd finger-paint it on the cabinet in an even coat, careful to cover the whole surface where the veneer was going.After washing the glue off my hands, I'd place the veneer and smooth it down. It sticks and stays in place right away, even on vertical surfaces, but I still continued to smooth over it with pressure to ensure the whole surface adhered well. I also used a small roller to make sure it was well pressed. I'd say I spent maybe 5 minutes on each piece, smoothing and pressing and re-checking.I gave each piece more time to dry before using a sharp utility knife to trim the edges. I cut along the edge with a slicing motion from front to back, away from the visible surface - that was the cleanest look. I lightly sanded the edges smooth & rounded with a fine grain sandpaper, and used stainable wood putty at the corners where edges met. Then I stained & polyurethaned, and it looks like an oak cabinet. In fact, we made the countertop using 2 layers of oak-veneer plywood from the local home supply store (cheaper & easier to get than solid oak), so I had to veneer the side edge of the countertop. It's impossible to tell that it isn't solid oak.Note: You want to try to avoid getting glue on the surface of the veneer, or it won't take stain well & will be an obvious spot. If you do, you can sand it, though. In fact, I didn't see some glue spots until I stained, so then I sanded them a bit, tried more stain, sanded again where needed, etc. until they were gone. The veneer held up fine.