First of all, click on the "limited lifetime warrant" detail link to read the ONE YEAR limited warranty which is actually provided.I installed this 22 years ago. Worked great until diverter became sticky then began leaking. Kohler doesn't provide diverter mechanism as cartridge! I would have to take bath out of service, disassemble diverter, figure out what internal is jacked, order specific parts, wait for delivery, reassemble and reinstall.Not same day repair will be possible. Rediculous. No more Kohler for me!

The measurements of Kohler were different than the measurement of Waltec valves I was trying to replace. I had to return the Kohler valve.

Good quality product. It was a bit tricky to install due to the size of the three holes needed to be drilled through the cement board, tile and adhesive as the final handle cover is only about 1/4" large in diameter that the valve body itself. So any variation to the hole in any direction will not be covered. Also, the instructions for the mounting depth is off by at least 3/4". I had to use the longest extender that came with the kit in order to connected the valves to the handles, even then I could have used a longer piece.It looks great though and the quality seems pretty good. It's been 13 months since the bathroom has been completed and everyone loves it.

Wanted to wait awhile before reviewing this, to see if any problems came up. So far nothing, works just as well now as it did when when I installed it. The shower diverter valve on my old system would not shut off after a month or so because the spring would quit working and you would have to push it back in manually. So far this is working well.

We were remodeling our bathroom and wanted to use Kohler Model #: T15235-4-CP shower handles/diverter. It did not come with the valves, so we had to buy this system separately. We installed it in August 2014. It is working well. The only thing we could not understand is that the hot and cold are reversed. We thought maybe the picture was just reversed, but it is not. It is exactly as shown. We installed as is and hope it doesn't matter if hot water comes through the "cold" valve.

I work in the home renovation trade but I am not exclusively a plumber, (and do a lot of repair work for plumbing that has gone bad) I put in a lot of deferent types, styles, and price margins and coming out of Florida with very hard water and the only thing that really seems to make much of a deference is having the ceramic abrasive disk to combat the scale buildup and maintain a good seal. I've installed several of these units and have never had a problem with the valve, installation, or stress from regular use. The "Coralais, Trim Kit" works easily (as long as it's not used for a handle to consistently haul a 220lbs. person out of the tub) and is easy to keep clean and maintain even with high use. The valve has easy to install solder and threaded fittings for the main feeds that are easily bolted on after the fact so there's no heat transfer to the valve components during assembly. The entire unit is a little wider than many other valves so you may have to make some room and relocate your main feeds to the other side of your mounting studs in some case and do a bit more trimming, but nothing beyond standard concerns.Priced at around $120-ish for the valve and The "Coralais, Trim Kit" at around $80 the price is about $200 which is $30 over the American Standard and $50 over the Pfister equivalence at HD and or Lowes (both of which are so cheaply made i will not put them in my own home) and in some cases was less than there in stock alternatives. Looking at the valves side by side there is no question about how much higher quality this valve is over the other units considerably more durable, ceramic disks, and metal instead of plastic handles.You can save $50 bucks and get something else but you'll replace it again at some point, if you want to do it ounce and not mess with it again this Line my absolute recommendation for both vertical, and 3 valve faucets.

I've been seeing the range of plumbing fixtures with an ongoing remodel, and this valve set brings up an excellent example of why to spend a few bucks on better quality stuff. There is a huge difference between the $50 Moen shower set I initially purchased for this particular installation (one of my first ~regrettable~ fixture purchases for this project, one that sat around for a good long while before I got to it), versus the high standard this is built to.The quarter turn valves are precise, and feel precise from stop to stop. There's no nudging the valve handle at the end of its rotation to prevent the shower head from dripping. There's no wiggle or slop in the handles. There's no realistic chance of over-tightening or overheating the brass construction during installation. And there's a good chance this (in my case) will make the moove from its current temporary-for-now installation location to its ultimate home in a yet-unbuilt bath.Perhaps the greatest value is knowing the valves can be easily rebuilt when the time comes, though that ought to be a long time away.Kohler introduces a small amount of confusion in with this installation. Because of the "pull for shower" design of the diverter valve, which is lightly spring-loaded to default flow to the bath nozzle, this rough-in guide specifically states "do not use the 3-valve yoke with ceiling supplies," and then proceeds to give directions on flipping this over for ceiling supplies (the instructions are also written for their 2-valve models). But then a large card affixed to the valves states, "for ceiling supplies, connect cold water to red valve" -- implying it's acceptable to mount THIS YOKE upside down. But it's not, according to the other tag string-tied to the yoke. So if you're dropping in from the ceiling, you'll need to make some turns underneath the valve assembly.Kohler does an interesting thing with the supply connection to the yoke -- it's a compression fitting using their proprietary hardware (not your standard brass "olives" used to connect sink and toilet compression stops to 1/2" copper). This keeps the torch away from the valves, and eliminates the pipe thread fittings on two of connection points (the shower and bath spout connections are remain 1/2" NPT. In the event this valve needs to be removed / reinstalled, my assumption is the custom Kohler olives would need to be replaced. The fittings are drip-free, but I tightened them before installing the yoke in the wall, and soldered the connections to short 4" stubs of 1/2" copper.In use, my only gripe is the action of the diverter valve is somewhat forceful and loud. The pull required to activate the valve is very light, but water pressure takes over and basically forces the completion of the pull, with a very solid "Klunk!" sound. The same is sometimes true for pushing it back in to redirect the water to the spigot, though not consistently.

I purchased this along with the Kohler trim kit for the main floor bathroom reno of my house. I did a full gut and built a custom Schluter Kerdi shower system with slate tile. I've worked my hands to the bone for this reno as it's my "dream bathroom". I installed this valve kit a few months back, and with the drywall down I tested it multiple times to ensure no leaks. The only TINIEST leak (as in 1 drop of water would form after 12-15hours sitting with the valves closed) at the giant brass nut fittings that hold the pipe connectors. I tightened them with a pipe wrench and the leak vanished.Fast forward 2 months while I finished the drywall, waterproofing, tiles, grout, glass wall, etc. TODAY I took my first shower in the new shower. I turn on the hot and cold valves which direct pressure to the "tub spout" below and I notice a stream of water spewing from the "pull handle" in the middle of the valve set. As I increase water pressure so does the stream. I pull the handle and activate the shower head and it stops. When I push it back in to activate the tub spout it begins leaking again from behind the pull knob.I tried to remove the pull knob and the allen screw that is about the size of a pencil tip stripped...Because that screw stripped I cannot get the trim off now to try and figure out what to do with this leak. Later today I'm going to have to drill that screw out and hopefully not damage the trim in the process to access the leak. Knowing what's behind the trim knob I can say that water is definitely leaking from the "rod" that pulls out to switch between the tub and shower outputs.I had tested this several times during the shower build while tiling (using water from the tub spout to wash the tiling dust from the floor of the shower) and there were no issues. If I had to guess I would say I used the valve set for a total of maybe 10 times at less than 5mins each and it's already leaking. The real panic I have now is what might be leaking behind the walls. I know Kohler, they are a big name brand, but now I have a valve set cemented into my walls behind over 18,000$ worth of work that is leaking. I feel sick and I hope this doesn't happen to anyone else out there.