Electric SW38C Aftermarket Trigger Switch (Eaton Style) Replaces DeWalt 391926-01 and 391926-00

i bought this for my older Dewalt 705 type 2. on that particular saw, the handle design is a bit different than newer types, so this one does end up being a bit smaller but that’s not a big deal in terms of functionality. the other things to note have to do with wiring it up. on my particular saw, the old switch had one black and one colored wire on each side of the switch. on this switch, you should have both blacks on one side and both colors on one side. the terminals for me were also reversed, so the first time i wired it the saw would turn on immediately and stop when you pull the trigger, but all i had to do was switch what side the wires went to meaning i just swapped both blacks to the other side and same with the colored ones and after that, it worked perfectly. people complaining that it doesn’t work when they hook it up the exact way the wires were on the old switch are the ones at fault, it’s not the switches fault that they ignored the wiring diagram that is clearly printed on the switch. the only reason i can’t give it 5 stars is because i do know that some people will refuse to look at the diagram and will inevitably wire it up wrong, and that it’s not the exact same size as the old switch (which i can’t really blame this switch for considering that the old style just simply isn’t made anymore). it will absolutely work for your dewalt 705, you just have to make sure you pay attention to the small details to make it work as it should.

Repaired DeWalt chop saw. One must be care in the connection of leads, but it’s nothing a multimeter and a little thought can’t solve. Oh, and I had to remove a small section of the original housing, the work of minutes with a hot knife and/or a Drexel.

Bought to fit my older 12" chop saw and the trigger did not fit sadly, however the folks understood and gave me a full refund the same day I contacted them.

It’s solved my problem .

OEM switch is feed 1left side 2 right side this is feed 2 1 Also factory has tab ( slip on ) connect this is screw connect. had to do some wireing to installed it not looking at the above, and when i plugged it in it was ON running. So figured i reversed a wire switched the blacks as yellow was low wire on left and was correct. Plugged in and still on. Looked closely saw the reverse above so changed it still ON. reversed blacks again, still ON. Hit switch and it cuts OFF so this switch is default ON. I didn't think to take any pictures.

The OEM trigger switch gave up and no longer able to operate the miter saw. I had to make sure that the motor is still operable so i simply connect 2 wires from position 1 and 3 and leaving the 2 wires connected to 2 & 4 just hanging then plugged the tool to 120VAC and motor turned. Had to do a bit of trimming using my dremel tool to have the new trigger switch snugged fit and no obstruction to freely move back to reset position. I did not have to change the wiring orientation as mine came in exactly like the OEM wire design. Miter saw operational once more and will have more years of use so long as you take good care of it and clean after each use.I had several experience with different power tools with OEM trigger switch just going bad after several years of use and kept in storage. The electrical contact inside seems to be main culprit why this switches tend to go bad over a long period of time even if not used frequently.Overall i am very satisfied giving this replacement trigger switch a 5 stars and BEYOND!

when i installed this switch i hooked the wires up exactly how they were. plugged it in and the saw ran without the switch pulled. If i pulled the switch it would stop.. so i looked at the orientation and terminals 1a, 1b, and 2a, 2b were reversed. I re-routed the cables opposite how they were and hooked them up opposite how they were connected on the old switch and it works fine. for anyone who doesn't understand electronics this could be scary, challenging. I matched the model number and type and it was listed in the description/ Dewalt DW705 type 8. Also, my old one had male spade connectors and the replacement had screw terminals. i had to cut off the female spade connectors from my saws wiring and crimp and solder ring terminals on the leads in order to get it to connect to the switch so other than being a major pain in the butt to put in it is an ok switch. good luck

Remplacement. Non compatible Rembouse complet

Was wrong one constant power... Pull the trigger power goes off

It was a lot of search to find a suitable switch to repair the trigger switch on my 2006 Kind Canada model 8372N miter saw. Called King's spare parts dept, they didn't had anymore the switch as spare part (it's not Makita standing behind their tools for 25 years+!). Found one that could be compatible from DeWalt DW708 miter saw... discontinued also and no spare switch still in inventory.Finally found this "Eaton style" one that had the same lower body (from pictures at least) than my original switch. Only the top button was much larger and could not fit the handle opening on my saw, but the two mounting holes of top part seemed to be exactly at the same place (from pictures again) . Decided that I could keep the top part of my original switch (for the riveted button) and take only the bottom of this one (containing the contacts, which is what I wanted). The two parts are separating via 4 prongs (2 each side) that you must pry out to separate (a bit tricky to do both sides at the same time, but gently, you can do it without breaking the plastic).One difference with this switch, is that it does have two sets of contacts (one normally closed for the electric break, one normally open for activating the saw), BUT it DOESN'T have an internal "bus bar" relating the two contact sets. You must then create the electrical link from outside, using proper 300V rated #14AWG wire. Another difference is that this one comes with both screw contacts and quick connect. You can remove the quick connect part (small add-on L shaped pieces), but be sure to keep the screws with contact plate of your old switch if you are in the same situation as me (i.e. to create good contact surface to round lugs and to have anti-vibration locking). In my case, to create the outside electrical link for the electrical breaking function, I chose to keep the quick connect on two screws, but reverse them 180deg (i.e. turned inward the switch body) to be able to use both round lugs of my original cabling and quick connect at the same time (electrical link between the contact sets was made with quick connects).Fitting the top of my orig switch to the bottom of the new one was not a success. There is a subtle small difference in the 4 prongs height. So, I was able to change my strategy and keep the whole plastic body of my orig switch and rather take the brand new contacts of the new one and simply slide them in my orig plastic body. They fit perfectly. Once re-assembled, the spring action of the trigger button is perfect, with a convincing "click" positive action (depression) and return (just like brand new!). Just be very careful if opening the two parts that a small spring between top-bottom is creating the pressure and positive-action "flip" for the slider inside between NC and NO positions (i.e. button pressed or depressed). Be careful to not loose this small spring... you need it when re-closing the switch, and it is a bit tricky to re-position while closing the switch. If needed, add a bit more dielectric grease to stick it temporarily in place while re-closing (there is already this grease probably for the exact same mean at factory, but adding a bit helps).Saw electrical break was working fine as well. Overall, I repaired this excellent ~225$ saw with this 14$ switch and a bit of time (I would say it took me around 1.5 hour to figure all this out, including unmounting/reassembling of the saw's plastic body/handle assembly). Added a few pictures to help illustrates what I described here, if it can help others.

Item look the same as OEM part but was just slightly different in the way it fit into place. The wiring was opposite the OEM part too so it took a bit to re route the wires to make it work. But overall I got it to fit and work. Relatively an easy fix to my old worn out trigger. 😊

If you need to replace the trigger switch on your DeWalt Model 705 Miter Saw, you can save about $20 by buying this switch and a new DeWalt Handle (search for ASIN # B00BSCNQCI) instead of the Black and Decker kit that sells for over $52. The early versions of this miter saw had a square-ish shaped handle and the switch is no longer available for it. To fix the switch, you must replace the handle as well. The only other things you’ll need are 4 insulated female crimp connectors (blue) to fit the switch. The handle doesn’t come with screws, but all the screws from the old handle work fine.My miter saw is the 705 Type 3 (I make no claims for any other Type number), and this switch and handle combination works perfectly, though there are a few things to note. First, view the video on YouTube on how to change the switch and handle. You’ll see it’s not that difficult. Second, save all the screws when you remove the old handle and switch, and note which ones go where. Third, you’ll be reusing the black carrying handle, so don’t throw it away (if you need a new one, you might as well buy the complete Black and Decker kit).Most importantly, wire it as per the video. The switch has four terminals. Two are normally closed and two are normally open (it shows you which is which on the body of the switch). The two black wires go to the right (normally open) side of the switch as you face the front of the saw. The yellow and red wires go to the left (normally closed) side of the switch. Whether you get the B&D kit or use this switch and the separate handle, it’s wired the same way. Ignore the wiring instructions that come with the B&D kit.As per the video, you don’t use the existing strain relief (heave rubber cover where the cord exits the handle) or the metal piece that holds the cord down.The photo shows my 20+ year old saw with the new handle. Maybe I’ll get another 20 years out of it.