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eric st-pierre
Reviewed in Canada on May 5, 2022
First pic shows how they are not at all the same. And sdcond pic shows that the exedy pressur plate is smaller then my oem clutch
SV
Reviewed in the United States on March 7, 2018
Real oem replacement clutch for my subaru wrx. It is soft and had a break in period of about 300 miles before it quit grabbing super hard. If you have the 5 speed transmission in a 02-05 wrx stick tot he stock clutch. You will not worry about breaking your transmission as the clutch will slip if you have a lot of power mods. Fit well and works well. My only tip is that when reinstalling make sure you put the clutch master cylinder spring on correctly. I revernsed mine and couldn't figure out why the clutch wouldn't return.
froth
Reviewed in Canada on January 26, 2018
Exedy clutch stated that it would fit, however the kit we really needed was a KSB03a which was discontinued....easy fix, sad that we had to pull the trans again to install lower profile flywheel bolts....
Customer
Reviewed in Canada on July 14, 2017
all around good experience
Rob
Reviewed in Canada on October 30, 2017
Easy installation, great quality. Will always recommend Exedy. Don't push it though, OEM clutch means you shouldn't add too much power.
Vaughn
Reviewed in Canada on March 8, 2016
Exedy is an OEM supplier for Subaru. The only difference I could find with this clutch kit and the OEM clutch that came off of my car are the damper springs on the clutch disc itself. Everything fit 100% like an OEM part and so far it has held up great. I have around 8000 Km on the clutch and a new OEM flywheel now and it has handled more than stock WRX power levels as I have it installed in my 1999 Legacy GT-B (280HP 250TQ). There is no clutch chatter or release bearing noises on cold startups even on really cold -25*c days.The kit comes with a nice set of coloured instructions and warnings/tips for your install along with a bunch of Exedy stickers which is a bonus to the clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot/release bearings and alignment tool that I was expecting. I am really happy with the kit and I 100% recommend this kit if you are looking for a stock replacement without paying significantly more for OEM parts at a Subaru dealer.
Rex
Reviewed in the United States on April 6, 2016
I recently took my car into a sh@tty mechanic and he replaced my clutch with some cheap clutch. When I got the car back, it had a chatter that wasn't there before. When I complained, he told me it was how I was driving the car (it most definitely had nothing to do with how I was driving the car)! After talking with a very knowledgeable buddy of mine, he suggested that perhaps my car needed a snout kit which I then installed myself as I had lost all respect and trust in the sh@tty mechanic. That helped slightly, but the chatter was still there. I then bought this clutch and put it in and bingo! Smooth as butter and my life is chatter free! Bottom line, if you buy this clutch and still have chatter, ask yourself: Did you machine the flywheel? Is their a grove on your transmission snout? (if so you need the snout kit, I got a transquil kit from the dealer) Lastly, are your U-Joints in your drive line ok?
Steve Goebel Jr
Reviewed in the United States on April 9, 2013
I checked around and most mechanics recommended Exedy for a quality stock clutch replacement, and that is why I chose this product. An additional plus is that the clutch came with additional tips for installation that were particular to my vehicle make & model, which was great because this was information that wasn't in the Subaru vehicle repair manual. These tips really helped in the install process on my 2004 WRX wagon. If you do the install yourself, make sure that you get your flywheel resurfaced (cost me $28), that way you are starting the new clutch with a new perfectly flat surface. Also if doing it yourself in the driveway and pulling the engine to get to the clutch, here are some tips: To get a better angle on the botom transmission-to-engine bolt that is behind the CV axle, remove the retaining pin on the CV by tapping it out with a hammer & punch. This will allow you to partially slide he CV on the splines just enough so that the bulk if the CV housing is out of the way for that transmission bolt. I still used a swivle on the socket, but this helps with removal and again when torquing this bolt when reinstalling. Just remember to reinstall that retaining pin back in after you reinstall the engine. The hard parts in this install are pulling the engine away from the transmission (get a buddy or two to help as more hands helping are better than just your 2 hands, & try to keep the engine parallel to the tranny when you wiggle & pry it away so the studs slide out of the tranny mounting holes easier). Once the engine is out, there is a special tool to help in getting the old clutch off and new one on, I made my own by drilling 2 holes in a small piece of flat aluminum bar (you'll see what I mean when you see the pic of the special tool in the shop manual). This tool helped to torque the flywheel bolts as well by using a small "S" hook on that same home-made tool to connect it to the clutch cover when you torque the clutch bolts (although probably not nessesary as the clutch bolt torque is not very hard). Getting the engine back in is a bit tricky lining up with the bottom mounting studs in the holes that they go into on the tranny, and again try to keep the engine parallel with the tranny so it slides on easier (required some wiggling & pushing in my case). Once you get it close enough to start threading the mounting bolts, work your way from bolt to bolt to evenly snug the engine up to the tranny. Then make sure that you loosely install the heat shield that goes under the turbo before installing the center exhaust (I got it right on the second attempt). Just wish I had those extra tips when I was doing it... otherwise the rest went back together just as it was disassembled when I started. Make sure you torque everything to spec, & Good Luck!-Steve G-
Mr. Brak
Reviewed in the United States on December 17, 2012
I put this clutch in an 02 wrx wagon with 75,000. Stock clutch was starting to slip. My car isn’t stock (similar to turboxs stage 3) and probably has around 240 hp at wheels so the early retirement of the stock clutch was expected.I was very happy with the quality of the components. The clutch disk looked very similar to the stock one as far as the spring center goes. The kit comes with a pilot bearing which I wasn’t going to use but after inspecting my old one, I found I needed it. I did not replace my flywheel or have it turned as I could still see the machine marks on the surface and there were only two hot spots about the size of a dime on it. Installation was hard due to previous warrantee work, the shop must have used an air wench on the bolts, and everything was way too tight.Immediately after installation I found that the release point of the clutch was much lower on the pedal but after a week or so this has gone back to nearly the stock position. The pedal feel is smooth, easier to press but with a definite release spot where the pedal suddenly get easier to press, kind of like a compound bow for those archers out there.The pressure plate must be a tad lighter than my stock one. When I first bought the car, I took it in for warrantee work because the transmission made a horrible sound during decelerating, like a bunch of marbles rolling around a metal pan. The fix for that was to install a heaver flywheel which did fix the problem. With this new clutch setup, the problem is back, not as bad but definitely there. I am assuming it is back because the components are lighter but I did not weigh them.The clutch hooks up very well with no slip. It is a little harder to modulate the release but still very easy to drive, I think it is better than the stock clutch ever was and would not hesitate to recommend it for stock to mildly upgraded wrx’s.
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