Gemi Elettronica Chimney Fan Fireplace Fan Extractor Aspirator Chimney Draft Inductor Basic Model for Barbecue BBQ 110 V

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Easy install other than the wiring which i figured out with a simple test. I would recommend not using the screw terminal if possible. They are not tight and not meant for US standard size wire like 14awg (which is required). I put up a wire diagram for those who are having trouble.

I can't begin to tell you how happy I am with my fan. I have battled with fires in my house for probably 20 years. No matter what I did it would always smoke our house out and smell like it for days after. Because of that we very seldom even used it. But now! I've had a lot of fires and haven't had the first hint of smoke inside!! Thank you for your work and ingenuity Gemini!!

Terrible instructions, wiring is color coded for a different country (not USA) the pwr controller fell apart inside and I had to fix it and the power controller is not weather proof and very hard to wire especially if you use 12/2 wire

I bought the “basic” model for my wood stove/fireplace insert because smoke would spill into the room even though the flu and damper assembly are clean and unobstructed. The first thing I noticed about this fan is that it is very well-built. This isn’t any cheap flimsy fan. The motor is protected and is mounted above the blower assembly and its vents, so the smoke never touches the motor.Installation of the fan itself is very simple. You should first check all your chimney/flu measurements to make sure it will fit, and buy the separate round adapter if you have a round flu. The included bracket kit is pretty adjustable and should fit most square and rectangular chimneys. Ideally the controller is mounted inside near the fireplace where it’s easy to access. Obviously you need to get power to the controller, and then from the controller up to the fan, which is the hardest part. I was an electrician before I switched careers, so I did the electrical work myself. I ran conduit up to the top of the chimney using weatherproof fittings and a weatherproof junction box to connect the fan’s electrical flex tail. If you’re not comfortable doing electrical work, you’ll need to hire an electrician.The controller itself is quite heavy because it contains a multi-tapped step-down transformer connected to its switch to adjust the fan speed. This is the correct way to control this type of motor because it varies the voltage. Cheap controllers (as in light dimmers) may use a solid state device like a triac to limit the current by chopping out portions of the AC sine wave based on its phase angle. Keep in mind that due to the controller’s size and the location of its two mounting holes, it needs to be mounted on a standard 4-square box. I used a couple of flat washers along with the screws for added support. Most houses don’t have this type of box in the right location, so one will likely need to be added and attached to a stud due to the weight of the controller. A horizontal 2x4 between studs or a bar hanger that is normally used to mount ceiling fans can also be used. A standard cut-in box in the drywall with some type of adapter probably wouldn’t do the job. Installing the box and doing the inside electrical work wasn’t a problem because I was doing some remodeling and already had part of the wall torn apart. The controller works very well, but I do have one complaint about it. It uses spring-loaded push-in terminals for its connections, similar to “stab-lock” receptacles and switches. As an electrician, I have always felt that stab-lock is a very bad idea for receptacles and switches because it doesn’t allow enough contact area for the wires. This can lead to overheating and possibly fire at higher current levels. It’s a bad idea for this controller as well. On top of that, the wires can easily pull out when installing and removing the controller from its rear assembly that screws onto the 4-square box, and there isn’t a whole lot of free space in the box to work with. Either the springs don’t have enough strength or the contacts aren’t sharp enough to grab the wire as well as they should. This doesn’t give me much confidence in the reliability of the connections. Screw terminals should have been used instead. I suppose one could modify the controller and remove the existing terminals and install something like a screw terminal block. I may look into that sometime, but why should I have to re-engineer something and void the warranty after paying that much money for it? An easier workaround might be to use stranded wire for the wiring that goes into the push-in terminals. That should provide more contact area and make the wires more secure and harder to pull out.As far as noise, I can hardly hear the fan outside, and the only sound I can hear inside is a little air rushing around the fireplace door seals when it is at its highest setting. The air flow actually pulls the fireplace doors closed when they are open a crack. Definitely more air flow than I would normally need, but the controller has six speed settings to choose from. When you’re cleaning the fireplace, the highest speed might be good to keep ashes from getting all over the place. As with any fan this powerful, especially at its highest settings, you do want to make sure you have some type of make-up air inlet in your house, or else partially open a window. It wouldn’t be good to suck back any flu gasses from your gas furnace or water heater.Overall I am very happy with the fan. I would buy it again and would recommend it.