Great fencing for the price

A light strong fencing. Doesn't rip easy like some.Just installed today, looks good. as long as it keeps the deer out, I might finally get to eat my garden instead of the deer eating it.

This lasts in the 5-10 year range. For 10-20 year deer fencing, I've used thicker gauge plastic tenax. I've bought maybe 1500 feet of this for squirrel and bird fencing. It's more flexible than the thicker deer fencing. It's less flexible and way easier to handle than what is sold as "bird barrier" fencing which is so fine in gauge that it gets caught in everything, including itself.When using thick twine to sew together to make 14 feet wide and 100 feet long, it's terrific over a 85 foot blueberry row. For fruit trees (pruned to as high as I can pick and as wide as they grow, on 9 foot centers), I sew two 7 feet together for 14 feet wide, cut at 33 of 50 foot lengths, staple long 1x2 wood to each end as "wands", and used the "wands" to lift the netting over fruit trees. It also works great over PVC or PEX hoops on row crops. The main complaint is that I don't like it as "deer netting"- too short lasting. I don't know if the holes are small enough to keep out rats (not that much of a problem here) but it works great with small birds, squirrels, possum, raccoon. Unexpectedly, ground squirrels don't eat through it (but love to chew on stuff that grows through the holes).

We used to buy the lighter netting to keep out the deer but it gets destroyed by the heavy snow during winter months. Hopefully this will take the weight of the snow better. We extended it 32 inches above the fence and the rest below. It’s barely visible so the birds are just getting used to it. They are fast learners! We used zip ties and garden stakes. It was extremely easy to install. The lighter netting we had previously used became tangled very easily and was pretty frustrating. Will wait about a week to see if the deer get in, if not, will start planting.

We used this product for deer fencing around our garden. It has been up for 3 weeks and so far no deer have gotten into the garden. It is early to say how durable it will be.

I am a little perplexed by the reviews indicating this will not stop deer. My yard backs up to a large woods which is a mini-deer 'highway'. I have seen up to seven deer in my yard at once with frequent sightings each morning and evening. Over multiple growing seasons, they have not eaten the small trees I planted or garden plants when using this Deer Barrier properly.A few things to note:1.) I am using this as a temporary fencing material: Once the trees are big enough to survive nibbling deer, the plastic fencing comes down. As I have enlarged my garden, the plastic fencing is replaced with permanent fencing.2.) The fencing must create a reasonable distance from any edible plants. Even at 7 feet tall, if the fencing is too close to a tall plant (especially trees), branches will get eaten. Deer will reach!3.) The fencing must have sturdy fenceposts - I use standard metal fence posts available at any big box hardware store, attach with zip ties. Easy. Avoid plastic or bamboo garden stakes.4.) The fence is still subject to the whims of nature. A storm brought a sizable limb onto one section of my fence, it collapsed, and the tree was eaten!5.) I have also used this netting for climbing vegetables. When properly strung between wooden posts, it works great.Please note that most deer in my backward are does and usually 1-2 fawns per season. While I do see one buck on occasion, he has not used his rack to try to take down a fence. I suppose this is possible.Also, this fence is not pliable enough for draping applications. If you want something with more flexibility to drape over plants, try Deer X.

Reasonably solid. When clipped to a fence post, the nylon strings will eventually rip in the wind. Not a big deal, you tie it with another string. Should last for many years.

The Easy Gardener LG400171 fence is black polypropylene, with a grid of 1 1/8" x 7/8" (ht x width). The fence comes folded in half to a 3 1/2' width and rolled. This information seems to be lacking both on Amazon, Easy Gardener, and other web sites. We installed two of these fences -- 65' and 90' perimeter.Preparation includes post installation. The posts should be plumb, or the fence will sag in places. We spaced posts 8' apart. We also marked a spot on each post that was a level point. That is, each post had a mark at the same level, even though the distance to ground of that point varied on each post. I cheated and used my Leica laser level. By having this level point, I could measure to ground, and obtain ground contour, and could measure to the post top to determine where extensions might be needed. We used 7' posts, and had, typically, 68" above ground. I cut sections of other posts and attached for customized extensions, to place the lowest ground portion at 78", and all other posts to this same level (but varying lengths to ground). We could determine that the ground rise was such that we did not need multiple levels to have adequate fence height at the highest point.To install, we had to unroll the fence on our driveway, and unfold to the 7' width. We then folded the fence along the 100' length, making multiple accordian folds of about 5'. Carrying this 5'x 7' glob of fence to the garden, we proceeded to attach one end to the appropriate post, then worked our way around to the gate area, stretching with moderate force. We attached the fence to the post with zip ties. Our gate is a piece of fencing, continuous with the total fence. The end of the fence is taped and zip-tied to a 1/2' plastic pipe, with some holes drilled through. Thus, the gate portion of the fence is attached to a left fence post on one end, and the pipe on the other. The pipe is held in place at a second fence post on the right by placing the pipe over a piece of re-bar (driven into the ground), and by strapping the middle of the pipe to the the right fence post. To open the gate, untie the strap, and lift the pipe 6-8" above the re-bar, and move the pipe to the side.We mounted the fence about 3" above the level of the pole tops, which gave very little top sag. (Garden #1 had 6", and the sag is noticible, but only an esthetic issue.) In stretching the fence, we kept the fence level by using the post markings. Thus, the fence was 3" higher than each post (with a few exceptions where I didn't extend for an inch or so). The portion on the ground varied with ground contour, and was cut after installation to ground level. We have 4x6's lining the garden, so I merely stapled the bottom of the trimmed fence to the 4x's. We're applying the trimmed pieces of fencing to our tomatoe trellises.Installation was, thus, quite reasonable. The fence is sufficiently strong initially, with no strength problems or breakage during moderate stretching. In spite of the trimmed ends (along the 100' length), the fence did not catch upon itself during installation. Since the fence is new, there is no data on longevity.We used EG deer netting last year on one garden. It worked, but broke occasionally, and had to be mended. I don't anticipate that happening this year with the deer barrier fencing, and anticipate multiple years of use. For us, an unfenced garden is merely deer food