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CURT 113703 Class 1 Trailer Hitch with Ball Mount, 1-1/4-In Receiver, Fits Select Nissan Sentra

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$202.99

$ 88 .99 $88.99

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About this item

  • DEPENDABLE STRENGTH. With a strong, welded steel build, this class 1 hitch package is rated for 2,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight (limited to lowest-rated towing component)
  • HIGHLY VERSATILE. Add versatile towing options to your vehicle with this class 1 trailer hitch. It provides a standard, square 1-1/4-inch receiver hitch and comes with a ball mount with a 3/4-inch ball hole to connect a small trailer
  • DUAL-COAT FINISH. For industry-leading rust, chip and UV resistance inside and out, this tow hitch is submersed in a liquid A-coat and co-cured with a durable black powder coat finish
  • EASY INSTALLATION. This class 1 hitch kit fits select model years of the Nissan Sentra
  • TESTED FOR SAFETY. Each CURT class 1 trailer hitch design is thoroughly tested, using real vehicles in real-world conditions. Our hitches are tested to SAE J684 specifications for safety on the road ahead


Connect to your lifestyle with a custom hitch receiver from CURT. All of our custom hitches are designed for a vehicle-specific fit, manufactured with pride, finished for industry-leading rust resistance and tested to rigorous SAE J684 standards for safety. This class 1 trailer hitch and ball mount combination is designed for a custom fit on select years of the Nissan Sentra (see application info to verify fitment). The hitch integrates with the vehicle's frame and provides a useful and dependable 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" receiver. The receiver is perfect for attaching the included ball mount and towing a small trailer, or for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted cargo carrier, bike rack or other accessory. This particular class 1 hitch is rated for 2,000 pounds gross trailer weight and 200 pounds tongue weight (never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). The ball mount included with this trailer hitch quickly and easily installs into the hitch receiver and has a 3/4" trailer ball hole (trailer ball not included). It can be mounted in the rise or drop position to promote level towing. Like all CURT custom hitches, this class 1 hitch is protected with our co-cured finishing process. It is descaled for a smooth surface, immersed in liquid A-coat for rust resistance inside and out, covered with a durable black powder coat and finally co-cured for an industry-leading rust, chip and UV-resistant shield. No matter where you're headed or which season of the year you’re towing in, this CURT hitch is equipped for long-lasting resilience to the elements. It features an open-back receiver for easy cleaning, and it comes with all the hardware necessary for the installation.


RightOn
Reviewed in the United States on August 6, 2023
This is my 2nd ever review, hoping this helps someone else.Bought the first one (Jun 2022) and opened (July 2023) and was excited to install but it is leaning to one side (manufacturing defect due to cooked welds). It it not straight at the major weld on the bottom and also at the little cross at the top of my photo. I can go to the Amazon page for help and it has a link to the Curt mfg website. However, when i wrote to curt per the Amazon instructions, Curt said to go back through the retailer i purchased the item from because Curt does not sell to the public. So the Amazon link to request help for this project takes the customer in an infinite loop with no resolution. Luckily, the 2nd hitch arrived today (Aug 2023) with the exact same problem as the first hitch so Amazon is stepping in to resolve both returns and a full refund.Although Curt's warranty does cover a manufacturing defect, Curt denied my claim and said it must have happened in shipment. Funny how the 1st and 2nd hitch a year later have the same crooked issue. Order #3 coming up. If nothing else, i'll get all the crooked hitches out of the Amazon warehouse one at a time.First 3 pictures are 1st hitch (June 2022), last 2 pictures are 2nd hitch right out of the box (Aug 2023).Neither hitch has been installed or used in any manner, I am the original purchaser.
Hello, It's Me
Reviewed in the United States on March 30, 2019
Curt does it again. Every hitch I own is a Curt and every hitch I will own in the future will be a Curt. All heavy duty parts, the instructions are spot on. The engineers at Curt are some of the best in the business. If you need a hitch, you need a Curt.
Kman
Reviewed in the United States on April 15, 2018
The good: Works like it should. The fishing wire to pull the screw through the bumper worked like a charm.The bad: Takes quite a bit of effort and patience to install. The instructions are not detailed and assume that you know how to remove your bumper. So if you don’t know how to do that, search online on how to do that first.Bottom Line: Does the job once installed but if you are not mechanically inclined, don’t buy it or get someone capable to install it for you.
Customer
Reviewed in Canada on August 12, 2016
This item was a perfect fit for my car. It works well and met my requirements.
Manny
Reviewed in the United States on March 3, 2016
I just installed this tow hitch on my 2011 Nissan Sentra last night. It took me about 3 hours which was definitely longer than I expected but I did make a few mistakes along the way. I think it looks awesome! I bought it to mount a bike rack using a 1 1/4" to 2" adapter/raiser. When I went to put the adapter on it would not seat all the way so I ordered a 6" long 1 1/4" hitch receiver extender so it could clear the bumper. The ball hitch mount that comes with it already extends 6" from pinhole to the 90 degree bend so you don't need an extender for mounting a ball for towing.The instructions it come with is about 5 whole sentences so here's a few more details.Tools needed include:-drill bits up to 1/2" and a power drill-pliers, needle-nosed pliers, dikes or wire cutters-floor jack-sockets, breaker bar, torque wrench-small crescent wrench (for fender bolts)-small hook with a handle-extra fish wire or rod tie wire or other rigid wire-small flash light or other light-safety glasses while drillingInstallation:1. Remove carpet board and spare tire from trunk.2. Pull out 2 of the 3 black rubber plugs where the spare tire sits (the 2 which are farthest away from you). Align semi-circular bracket and place the (2) 1/2" bolts in the bracket. These are the 2 larger ones of the 4 bolts. The threaded ends of the bolts will now poke out from under the vehicle.3. Remove two plastic pins from under back end of rear bumper. I used a pair of "dikes" for this. The easiest way to pull out these pins is to first pull out the center circular part of the pin which allows the outer body of the pin to close/compress to be easily pulled out. To put them back in, reverse the process: insert the pins into holes with the center bolts pulled all the way out then push the center bolts in which fattens the pin locking it in.4. Remove 1 small hex bolt from inside each tire well right above the splash guards. These hex bolts actually screw-in upwards so they are upside down.5. Now the bumper can be popped out enough to expose the trunk beam. Pull the bumper section outwards at each tire well. You'll hear some popping as the bumper clips disengage. Then pull the back of the bumper outward to get some access to the trunk beam. You will still have to move the bumper away a little bit whenever accessing the trunk beam.6. At this point I jacked up the car in front of the left rear tire (either rear tire would do) and I put a jack stand under for safety. When I was done installing, I actually found the car was completely resting on the jack stand and my floor jack had dropped down halfway! That was the first time in my life this ever happened! So I'm glad had the jack stand was in place... You probably don't really have to jack it up but it makes the next step a lot easier.7. Next is to enlarge 2 of the 4 holes at the bottom of the bumper beam. They are the 2 holes on either side of the center hole. To be sure you drill the right holes you can place the hitch up to the beam to see which holes in the beam line up with the holes on the hitch receiver. I used a 1/2" drill bit but first used a 7/16" drill bit. The beam has good thickness to it so slightly moving the drill in a small circular motion parallel to the floor while drilling will help you get through it easier. Remember, the 2 holes you want to enlargen with your drill are not right next to each other; not adjacent. The 2 holes you want drill in are on either side of the hole closest to dead center of the care. I used safety glasses while drilling because lots of small hot metal flakes will be falling on top of you as you drill from the bottom of the beam above you.8. Next is to fish the 7/16" bolts and brackets through the beam so that the threaded ends stick out the bottom of the beams and through the square brackets which will be inside of the beam. The instructions say to drill a large access hole in the bottom of the beam in order to pull the bolt through. But that would require at least about a 3/4" hole so I just fished the bolts through the ends of the beams. You will need some extra wire to do this. The 2 fish wires it comes with it are not long enough to fish from the ends of the beam. Attach your fish wire to the fish wire that comes in the box. Put the bolt all the way through the bracket and completely thread the spiral end of the fish wire onto the bolt securely. YOU DON'T want to lose a bolt/bracket in the beam! Now you can pull your fish wire through either end of the beam nice n slow until you see the wire through the bolt hole. I used a small hook to pull it out but small needle-nosed pliers would work too. Make sure there are no big kinks in your wires otherwise it will be hard to pull through the bolt holes. Also make sure your fish wire is attached securely to the other fishwire. I twisted them together with pliers and bent the twist up long the wire so it can fit through the hole.9. Now that all 4 bolts are in place you just need to attach the hitch receiver. Line up the hitch receiver holes with the 2 bolts in the spare tire sump first and hand tighten the nuts. Next, carefully align the holes in the hitch with the bolts in the trunk beam. You don't want to pop the bolts up into the beam before the nuts are attached! But if you do may be able to get it back out with a telescoping magnet.10. Tighten the 1/2" bolts to 110 ft-lbs and the 7/16" bolts to 70 ft-lbs. Attach the bumper back properly. I pushed the clips down with a flat head screwdriver to help them clip back in.Overall, I am very happy with the hitch! Took longer than I thought to install but it's really not that hard! I would've saved probably 2 hours if the instructions were as detailed as these ones I just wrote! Just remember you will need a 1 1/4" extender if using this for a cargo basket or bike rack. I ordered the extender and raiser/adapter on amazon too. You don't need the extender if just mounting a ball hitch because it comes with a ball hitch mount.
Luella Hansen
Reviewed in the United States on December 12, 2016
Works great but man was the instillation a pain in the butt. Trying to lace the bolts into the bumper support was a pain. It works really good now.Update: I have had this for 7yrs now and it was the best upgrade I ever got for my car. I use this all the time.