Didn’t used this product. Could not fix the electric stove

Very good

My oven now works perfectly well

Works and fits well

Replaced worn out original seal P/N 715368 used on Jenn-Air model 88370 and similar downdraft ranges made in the ‘70’s and 80’s. This seal was the exact same materials constriction and and cross section as the original seal being replaced for the first time in February 2017. This seal was 2-6” longer than the original when dressed in the same configuration as the original seal being replaced. It is easily trimmed to an exact length with scissors, tin snips, curved jaw wire/cable cutter. The wear and aging after 7 years is nearly imperceptible. This seal might be reasonably expected to last as long as the original seal did, 37 years, but it’s not really likely the range will be in service in 2061 to verify the accuracy of the prediction.To replace Jenn air seal… Open door, put one 1/2” 10/32 truss head screw through the upper hole now visible in the moving hinge plates to block each of both hinges from fully closing, close oven door slowly until blocked. Lift door off of hinge posts. Rest door oven side down/glass and handle side up. Remove screws from edge band to separate glass outer door from porcelain on steel inner door. Remove screws to separate inner door panel segments to release old seal. Clean all screws using solvent or soap/water. Lay replacement seal in same position as seal removed before trimming to length. Either; mark length with an ordinary graphite pencil rubbing the tip lengthwise instead of using the point and trim to length using scissors/shears/cutters over a trash can to catch any glass fiber fragments, -or- trim as described and vacuum immediately to prevent contact. With seal in place reassemble inside (oven side) door panel and reassemble inner door to outer door. Slip door on to hinge posts, open door fully, remove screws blocking hinges, close oven door slowly to confirm proper fit and door alignment. The door alignment is adjusted by using the screws at the top of the hinge posts to change how the door sits on the post. It’s tedious putting the blocking screws in, lifting off the door, turning the screw 1/2 a turn, puttin the door on, removing the blocking screws, etc. but it’s the only way.If the inaccessible layers/surfaces of the inner door glass assembly are dirty it’s convenient to disassemble them for cleaning while replacing the door seal. Note which glass goes where and which side faces the oven. A small bit of masking tape on the oven side, one glass at the corner but the other glass in the center of a side is enough to identify and still allow cleaning,.Do not reuse any corroded screws, purchase exact replacements made from stainless steel, black phosphate treated steel may also be used for inner panels, but is rarely found in retail stores. tores. The screws on these models are english sizes not metric. Do not use ordinary zinc plated steel which are the most available type. Zinc oxidizes rapidly at high temperature allowing the screws to rapidly corrode, then the door collapses and the glass breaks.The door hinges may be serviced conveniently while the door is off. Remove/reinstall door each door hinges (2 screws each 1 above 1 below 10-32 stainless truss head philips) to allow access. Grease pivots and spring ends with polyurea or lithium high temperate grease. Polyurea preferred, e.g. Mobil PolyRex EM,. A high “dropping point” is necessary so that the grease doesn’t melt and drop/run off the hinge leaving it as unlubricated as they would be if sprayed with WD40, or silicone, or lubricated with a liquid oil. The springs fail at the hook ends, coat both entire ends from the spiral to the cut end to reduce the bending stressby allowing the hook to slip and the rate of corrosion of the steel to maximize the spring life.

I have a 14 year old GE Range. I love it but thought I’d have to buy a new stove as I could not find the exact part number product near me or online. I bought this, bought a tube of high heat adhesive and installed it ( my original had clips on it to attach). Been using oven daily for 2 months since installing this seal. It works perfectly.

great product, perfect replacement, easy to install.Size was good.

I have an older model GE range and this fit perfectly, stove works like new. It was easy to install as well.

Perfecto 🙏

Bare bones, no instructions, sealer, clips, or any inking of what the hell it goes to. If you know how to do some research or know what you’re doing, you’ll be fine. If not..... look for a different seller. I ended up removing the clips from the old seal and it’s working for now. I’m happy, but those who need something more direct might have a hardtime.

Great replacement seal for ovens having a door seal which is threaded onto a wire frame (for example, JennAire 88369). This gasket has the necessary "figure 8" cross section to work in that type of installation: The wire frame threads into the smaller diameter hole of the "8", and the wider diameter portion then acts as the actual gasket seal against the oven body.If anyone from the manufacturer or marketer is listening: It would be great if you could add a little inset to the product photo that illustrates the cross sectional shape. That is what is critical for this type of wire-frame installation. Making that cross section more obvious will help others to identify it as a feasible part.

I was looking for a replacement oven door seal for a Tappan Gallery Model 31-4849 and the part is obsolete. Looking through seals, this one appeared to be similar. It was a perfect fit but made from modern materials. Very easy to install. Remove the oven door by opening it to the just ajar cool down position and lift the door straight up off the hinges. It is held in place by gravity alone. The rest is obvious, remove the 2 handle screws then the 5 screws holding the outer and inner door skins together. Flip the inner skin face down (oven side) onto a work surface or floor and remover the screws through the holes in the insulation. the most inner door skin is now loose and this holds the seal in place. Remove the 2 screws securing the ends of the seal and install the new seal in the reverse order. This is also a great opportunity to clean all the door parts you normally can't get too with the door installed.

Fit properly with plenty of spare length.Installation took about an hour, including cleaning the glass (which you might as well do while everything is apart).The front and back sections of the door have to be separated (10 screws on my unit). Remove the metal holder for the fiberglass insulation and carefully remove the insulating batts. Remove 4 screws (again, my unit) holding the 2 pieces of the inner door together; the gasket will be loose. Pay attention to the orientation because you will want to replace the gasket as you found it, with the thinner lip overlapping the metal and being sandwiched between the 2 pieces. Careful not to catch insulation between the metal sections. If you wish, remove the glass and clean the 2 layers. Replace the screws, insulation, frame holding the fiber glass, and reattach the inner and outer door sections.