Original fill valve worked for over 20 years, lets see how long this new one lasts.Tried to replace with a universal fill valve with small float and did not have the rim rinse (Not this valve I'm reviewing), it worked for a little over one year before it would hang and not refill the tank unless you reach in to the tank and push the valve lever to get it started.Installed the LASCO 04-4165 Coast 1B1X Style replacement yesterday, it was easy to install, took about 15 minutes.I had to bend the ballcock rod to prevent the ball from touching the the far end of the tank.Looks good so far, so I just ordered another one for my other toilet.Tip: add a small amount of 100% silicone sealant to the top side of the washer to prevent leaking due to uneven surface on the molded plastic, but don't let any sealant get on the bottom side of the washer or else you will have a difficult time removing it from the porcelain tank the next time you have to replace the valve.I don't know if this valve would have leaked without the silicone, but I have had issues with other molded plastic parts at the mold seam which creates a small step or flash, so I do it "just in case". It's easier to prevent a leak than it is to come back later and fix it.

Use a $10 flowmaster. They are quieter and quicker filling.

Save your money trying to go cheap and buy the Kohler 84499 Retro Fit kit ...I know its more but no comparison to the build quality and what's a bunch of frustration worth when the new stuff doesn't work

The fill valve functionally worked fine but I kept getting a small leak from where the water line screws on to the bottom of the fill valve. I reinstalled the thing several times over about a month, eventually realizing I wasn't at fault, but the leak was coming from connection of fill valve and connector hose. Bought another fill valve brand at Home Depot yesterday and leak was immediately fixed. I'm not sure if the diameter of the valve was just too small or it was the screw threading, but mine was a defect.

This is a replacement ballcock for most( and probably all surviving) 3.5 gallon/flush, 1 piece toilets (Tank and bowl cast as 1 piece). It replaces the 'diverter' type 1b1x, where the flow to the bowl is prioritized by a swinging ballast 'cup ' assembly.The reason that this is a special piece is that it diverts a greater amount of water directly to the bowl upon flushing to help evacuate the bowl...the one piece ''tank" does not contain enough water or head pressure (do to it's low profile) to contribute volume or to a lesser extent, velocity, to the flushing process.If you look on the side of this ballcock, you will see two fill outlets. The angled tube requires you install the supplied vinyl tube and place it into a pre-cast hole in the toilet ceramic casting, which more than likely resides at the 'joint' in the casting line mid-front, between the 'bowl' and 'tank'. This is very important as it provides most of the flushing water directly to the bowl during the flushing process. If this hose is left off, or it is allowed to just flop around the bottom of the tank area, you will experience poor flushing performance.The other is a straight down hard plastic tube that fills directly to the tank section. You can limit/reduce the flow rate of this tube by turning the plastic screw at the top of this, clockwise. That will initially supply more flush water directly into the bowl ( when it's needed most!), and delay the water refilling the tank.The top metal screw on the ballcock is to adjust when the float will shut off the flow of water. The more you screw it down the less water (in theory) will fill the tank as the piston that controls the water flow will sits and shut off sooner. Sometimes, even with the float fully at its natural top stop, the tank will continue filling or will sputter when the float is disturbed. If this is your issue, CAREFULLY bend the long brass float arm attached to the tank float ball slightly downward until your problem fill stops. Caution! If you use the top of the ballcock to provide an opposite lever whilst bending the float arm it WILL break (replaceable though). Either bend the arm detached from the tapped plastic end (out of the tank), or use a second opposing force 1/2 way directly on the tank ball arm. Yes it's a hack fix, but it works by improving/increasing the force on the piston valve through geometry. It's important to adjust the tank fill until the terminal water level in the tank is only SLIGHLTLY below (1/4" - 1/2") the top of the overflow tube where the 'flapper' is attached, otherwise if the tank level is too low, you will limit the flushing power of the toilet. Allowing the water to fill until it goes over the overflow tube will just allow water to go through the toilet continually as the ballcock will continue to do its job and try to 'fill' the tank trying to find its shut off point (btw, the simplified reason these toilets won't overfill the bowl when clogged!)The second adjustment screw is to limit the down stroke of the tank arm. If you screw it all in, it will slow the refill process and possibly provide some less water noise. Adjustment of this is a delicate process since if you cut down the flow rate of the ballcock too much, you may not provide enough initial water flow to fully flush the bowl. Which reminds me, open the water stop supply FULLY and then back it closed 1/2 turn to provide full water flow and prevent the valve from getting stuck full open.Note. If you adjust everything so the water completely stops only to hear it cycle on and off sometime later, your flapper is either leaking by and letting the tank slowly drain, or you have a crack in the bowl/Tank casting which is allowing water to pass through the hollow passage ways directly to the bowl or its cast-in trap. The ballcock is only doing its job to refill until the adjusted angle of the flow exerts enough pressure on the ballcock piston to stop the water. When the water level drops, the float drops and the water starts flowing...don't get mad at your new valve! The first issue is fixable with a new flapper (provided the flapper's seat is smooth and in good shape), the second problem is probably fatal.If your ballcock spits out of the top, you can try to re-seat the oval gasket under the three triangularly oriented screws at the top and carefully, and fully tighten down a little at a time, alternating between each screw to ensure even tightening. If you still get some dribbles, as long as it's not splashing out of the cover, its just going into the tank and it will just fill the tank slightly faster...no worries.Some additional cautionary notes: this is a plastic piece. Try not to use pliers on the nuts, muscle it into place or overtighten. You could put a hairline crack in it without knowing it..until you turn on the water. DO NOT TRUST a small continuous leak! If it is a crack, it WILL fail catastrophically...on Christmas Eve....when you are in Europe for 2 weeks! Apply rotational force only-no squeezing- when you tighten any nut or water connection.If you do all this and are still getting a poor flush, check that you are using the correct flapper. Most manufacturers have a specific flapper for their one-piece toilets tht use an intergal ballast to hold the flapper open longer than normal- "fit-all" flappers won't work. Also do not use in-tank auto bowl cleaners. They will remove the platicizers in your valve and eat any flexible gaskets eventually resulting in failure.Happy flushing!

Replaced the interior of my Kholer Model 3397 San Rafael with this kit. A fraction of the costs of the Kohler kit. Took me about 30 minutes to remove the old parts and install this kit. 2 months and no problems.

This is fantastic. It fit!!! Works extremely well. It has been very difficult finding a ballcock to replace the original in my 1988 early model Kohler Rialto K3402PB 1-piece toilet. This is the one! Only issue is that in the early Rialto toilets (mine), the tube to the bowl is 3/4 O.D.; this is 3/8 O.D. The fix is to slip the 3/8 in. tube supplied inside the old 3/4 in. tube. It fits. Seals off the tank so it doesn't leak into the bowl. I just order 3 more for my other toilets.

A lot less expensive than going to the manufacturer, it worked with only a slight modification.