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PCB Dry Film Portable Photosensitive Dry Film for Circuit Photoresist Sheet

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$8.48

$ 3 .99 $3.99

In Stock
  • 【for PCB making】Universal used in producing PCB board, attach on the PCB to make it photosensitive.
  • 【wide applications】Suitable for electroplating, hole covering and etching.
  • 【plating bath】Suitable for usual plating bath, no wrinkle or color error.
  • 【for different material】Great adaptive capacity to different material such as copper etc..
  • 【great performance】This photosensitive Film has great hole covering ability



Product Description

GS08872-1

PCB Dry Film Portable Photosensitive Dry Film for Circuit Photoresist Sheet

YT

for PCB making Universal used in producing PCB board, attach on the PCB surface to make it photosensitive.

for different material Great adaptive capacity to different material such as copper etc..

plating bath Suitable for usual plating bath, no wrinkle or color error.

1

GS08872-2

GS08872-3

Specification:

Condition: 100% Brand New

Weight: Approx. 55g / 1.9oz

Size: Approx. 1 * 0.3m / 3.3 * 1.0ft

Package List:

1 * Photosensitive Dry Film

Operating Steps:

1. Uncover the film, the photosensitive film is sandwiched between the two layers of film, first tear off one side, a little difficult to tear, try a few more

2. Then film, the copper plate can be slightly cleaned, flattened, try not to have bubbles

3. After the paste, the iron is slightly heated, not too hot, to fix

4. Print circuit board film, it is recommended to use film, you can achieve the highest fineness, if you do not require precision with sulfuric acid paper to print.

5. Exposure, put the printed pattern on the photosensitive plate, use ordinary energy-saving lamps for about 30 minutes, if there is an exposure machine for 1 minute, the sun has not been tried, it should be about 15 minutes, the exposure process is obvious, because the photosensitive The film changes color when exposed, and changes from light to dark blue. You will easily see your circuit diagram appear on the board.

6. Develop, remove another protective film, put it into the developer (developer is 1:100 water, 10 grams of water, 1 liter of water), and use a cotton swab to wipe the board with a little force during development.

7. Etching, this needless to say etchant water saturated solution

8. After etching, remove the film, remove the film by 1:60 or 70, and soak the board for a few minutes.


J. C. Silvia
Reviewed in the United States on April 4, 2025
Works well once the proper technique is worked out despite not looking very good out of the package. My roll had a lot of horizontal bare or thick appearing stripes as well as many irregular spots. However once I worked out a good method (on only my third attempt), none of that mattered at all. Over the years I've used many methods of putting a "resist" down on circuit boards but this is my first with dry transfer. Perhaps what impressed me the most was how tough the film was, even while developing. A description of what worked for me follows.The first step was actually the hardest -- removing the first backing film without stretching or letting it touch itself.I then used the water method to float the film onto a clean, untouched circuit board. I have a one-step procedure for cleaning the board. Never touch it with bare skin and scrub it until it is shinny with a steel wool soap pad immediately before applying the resist.Then I carefully squeeged the water out and put it in a food dehydrator at 95F for 5 hours. Then I left it in a dark place overnight.Up until this point the film is pretty delicate and you have to careful not to stretch it or it will pucker up to some extent when the water evaporates leaving voids that can ruin the print.Personally, I exposed it with a msla printer for 1 minute but what method you use shouldn't matter as long as you get the exposure time right.At this point you remove the second protective layer.I develop with 3% sodium carbonate (Arm and Hammer Laundry Booster) while brushing it with a soft silicone basting brush. I never timed it but less that 5 minutes should do it.I got perfect features down to 0.3mm, the smallest on my board, and its hard to scratch them off if you try.
Pam
Reviewed in the United States on June 15, 2024
I had never done photo etching before this. Material was easy to use, I was able to get a very deep etch into the metal without any undermining, materials, stuck to the metal with no problem. I would recommend it highly
KN
Reviewed in the United States on April 18, 2024
Arrived with creases in the film where the photosensitive chemical had been displaced. I had to examine the film for a good patch which led to excess wasted material. During development, the unexposed positive did not dissolve all the way in the water solution as described in the directions. I tried again with a 1:10 sodium carbonate solution which was unsuccessful. My next guess is to try sodium hydroxide... Anyway, no luck so far.
Andrew
Reviewed in the United States on November 21, 2023
Film had permanent wrinkles from it being wrapped & it had multiple spots through out that were close & didn’t have the photosensitive material.