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Denso- 6731201 DIRECT IGNITION COIL

Free shipping on orders over $29.99

$62.15

$ 26 .99 $26.99

In Stock

About this item

  • Efficient Fuel Consumption
  • Part number: 6731201
  • Package Weight: 0.37 kilograms
  • Oem equivalent part number: 673-1201


Denso- 6731201 DIRECT IGNITION COIL


Customer
Reviewed in the United States on January 22, 2025
Replaced our 2001 Tacoma OEM coil packs with these. Worked great.
Kevin Kenneally
Reviewed in the United States on September 27, 2024
fit perfectly on my 3.4l Toyota engine!
Brian Gaither
Reviewed in the United States on August 14, 2024
Original coil packs were nesrly 25 years old. I was replacing plugs and wires so i decided to replace the coils as well. These are same Denso as OEM. Took ten minutes to replace all three. Truck fired right up, very pleased with purchase.
Zeke
Reviewed in the United States on May 4, 2024
Bought these for my 04 Tacoma I’m fighting a misfire on. Still have the misfire, but at least I know the coils are not the problem. Replaced the original ones perfect and way cheaper than going to the dealership.
santiago v.
Reviewed in the United States on March 10, 2024
original y ya
Dale DeNike
Reviewed in the United States on December 18, 2024
Denso Coils, These are not fakes. If you are having problems with them there is something else wrong with your vehicle.
Wesley MacLean
Reviewed in Canada on July 28, 2019
Factory fit!
DRS
Reviewed in the United States on June 26, 2019
First off, 53.xx each for a genuine Denso coil is pretty good...free shipping from Florida to the west coast in 2 days is amazing! Bought these for my 97 4Runner 3.4. Old ones has 205k and my MPG was suffering. Too soon to tell if mileage improved but the throttle response seems a lot smother (not that it was too bad before). Smoothed out the higher revs when passing and such. There has been some debate whether these are genuine, and I'm going to have to say yes they are (it''s the little details). Starting from the box they were packaged in...all the tape on the box was consistent with a pack line with an automated taping system (same length, same orientation, same distance from the edges of each corner). Pack line with automated taper = manufacturing facility = big money = not somebody in a sweatshop bootlegging these and manually taping them. The part came in a plastic bag with warning stickers on it (again, not something you'd expect to see from anyone other than an OEM supplier). The coil itself was nearly identical to my TOYOTA branded originals I pulled. The parting lines were the same, the sprue (part where they inject plastic into the mold) was nearly as identical as matching fingerprints, even the draft in parallelism between the coil itself and the spark plug wire connector were the same. The only difference I found were absent markings on the boot and what seemed to be a slight iteration to the original mold where a fillet on the part was extended in a way which leads me to believe it was added for a more robust housing. I included pics of every angle so you can judge for yourself....UPDATE: After a few fill ups on my regular commute I'm getting 2 mpg more than before. At 15000 miles per year and 3.00 per gallon year these will pay for themselves in 6 months...
John Buhler
Reviewed in the United States on March 24, 2016
After diagnosing a misfire on one of the cylinders (thank you Advance Auto Parts for the assist there!) I found it to be a faulty ignition coil on my 2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Limited, 3.4L. Parts stores wanted upwards of $90 for this item, and mid-$80s for other manufacturers. Could NOT beat the price here. Amazon Prime shipping to the rescue so I didn't have to put up with the issue for long. 10 minute fix after removing part of the air intake and with 150,000 miles on it, my truck was firing on all cylinders again - LITERALLY.Packaging was pretty simple: one single coil pack in a plastic bag in the cardboard packaging box. No instructions came with it, but plenty of YouTube videos can help as well as message boards. Does not have the 10mm screw to hold it down to the engine block either, so be sure to keep the one on the old unit. No need to replace any wiring or connectors. Remove all the wiring attached to the faulty unit (make a note of where it goes) unscrew the 10mm bolt keeping it in place, pull the old one out, put the new one in, and reverse the process (e.g. screw it down, attach the wires).Now granted, it's been up and running for just less than 24 hours, so I may revise my review at a later date (hopefully not in another 150k miles though, just to make sure I let everyone know). Like the description says, this really was an EXACT replacement for my truck. In fact the old units were Denso also. May consider replacing the other 2 units on the V6 shortly.